Green Lighting Choices

By James R. Benya, PE, FIES, IALD, LC
(From the NKBA's Profiles Magazine)

With energy costs rising and interest in sustainable construction growing, designers of kitchens and baths are expressing an interest in designing lighting systems that are more energy efficient. But it's not easy to use "green" lighting and still achieve a quality appearance. The following are a few suggestions on how to achieve the best of both worlds—environmentally responsible design and appearance virtually indiscernible from any other lighting project.

To begin with, get over the notion that fluorescent is the "F" word. When you use fluorescent or compact fluorescent lamps, you generally use 50 to 90 percent less energy then conventional lighting. For instance, when lighting under a kitchen cabinet, the quality solution uses xenon incandescent or halogen lamps in fixtures or strips operating at 20 to 30 watts per foot. The fluorescent alternative uses 30 watts over 4 feet, a 75 percent decrease in energy consumption. Other good fluorescent applications include cove uplighting and bath vanity lighting, especially when using vertical lamps on either side of a shaving or makeup mirror. Use 3000K T8 lamps with 80 CRI or higher for most applications, use 2700K T8 lamps for extremely warm and traditional spaces, and use 3000K 90+ CRI T8 lamps for vanity applications.

Next, use the most efficient halogen bulbs for downlights and accents. A good design uses a mixture of halogen and fluorescent sources. The most efficient lamps are halogen IR or HIR versions, available in PAR30, PAR38 and MR16 lamp types. I also like halogen PAR38 lamps in the wide flood beam spread, especially with an 8 or 9-foot ceiling. A 60-watt HIR wide flood can replace a 100-watt R-40 lamp to get more light. And a 37-watt IR or HIR lamp can replace a 50-watt standard MR16 for more light.

Also use task-oriented lighting and fill in with decorative and general lighting. Orient downlights over countertops, islands, and peninsulas; provide undercabinet lights; and add task lighting for tables and other obvious areas of need. In bathrooms, use recessed shower/spa lights over tubs and in showers. Then add lighting for ambience and less demanding tasks. Don't just put in a grid of downlights throughout the room, as it's not necessary to light the floor.

Finally, use lighting controls to dim and limit the time of use. For powder rooms and bathrooms, consider motion sensors so lights aren't left on. You can even dim fluorescent lighting for the most efficient designs, although it's a bit expensive. In kitchens, use dimmers on incandescent lighting and provide enough switches to permit use of only some of the lighting most of the time.

I feel that maintaining a high standard of design quality is essential. Saving energy should not mean sitting in the dark, but rather, making conscious design decisions that conserve resources without looking like it. In our best green designs, you need to look carefully to realize that the lighting is actually more efficient than normal. I tend to put fluorescent lamps in locations where there is no aesthetic advantage for incandescent lights. Also, I consider the efficiency of the fixture and the hours of operation. For example, one of my favorite choices, an MR16 shower light using a 37-watt lamp, produces about as much light as a compact fluorescent 32-watt shower light, but the MR16 is smaller, looks nicer and has better color.

The most difficult decision in green design often deals with task lighting for the kitchen. Lots of 26- to 32-watt compact fluorescent downlights claim to put out as much light as the popular 6-inch 100-watt R40 incandescent can light. The claim is true, but the appearance of most compact fluorescent downlights is simply not good enough to be used in one of the most expensive spaces in a home. The key is to provide a mix of compact fluorescent and incandescent lights to balance energy efficiency and aesthetic appeal.

James Benya, PE, FIES, IALD of Benya Lighting Design has been in the lighting business for more than 30 years. An instructor with the American Society of Interior Design (ASID) and a past speaker at K/BIS, his approach to residential lighting is rooted in architecture and interior design with fine detailing and incorporates those elements into lighting using an easily understood layering system to achieve dramatic and functional lighting design for any décor, period, or style.