Q: I am currently remodeling my master bathroom. I bought a new exhaust fan w/nightlight and light. The ceiling is sloped. My contractor installed the fan but it is very, very loud even though the manufacturer says it is ultra quiet. It is a xxx bathroom exhaust fan. I contacted the mfg. to inquire how to install it so it would be quiet. They said it cannot be installed on a sloped ceiling. Do you have any suggestions as to how to install it, so it is not so loud?
Thanks
I had the same experience as you. I have a sloped ceiling but the fan had to be mounted vertically in my situation. The manufacturer would not promise the lower sone rating unless the fan was mounted horizontality. Here are a couple of options for you. If the ceiling has a peak in the bath space, drop the ceiling horizontality at that point. Drop the area enough that it will conceal the fan housing and the ductwork. If the ceiling does not peak in the bath area, create a horizontal section at the point the sloped ceiling meets the wall. Remember the fan should be at the highest point to be the most effective. Once you have built the horizontal section, you could recess lights into the same void as the fan housing and ductwork. This would add additional task or general lighting.
Q: Q: The cook top is 30 inch. Do you recommend a 36 or 30 inch width ventilation? The cfm is the same for both width sizes.
The width of the hood is set by the cooktop manufacturer. The manufacturer’s specifications will show the required horizontal distance from the edge of the cooktop to the edge of a combustible surface. Years ago we would typically place a hood above the range or cooktop that was the same width as the cooking surface. Today, with higher Btu output, many cooktops require wider hoods. Check your specifications carefully. If an appliance is installed improperly it typically will not meet code requirements.
Q: The range hood I am considering comes with two ventilation options. It can be vented to the outside, or used in 'recirculation' mode with charcoal filters. The second option would save a considerable amount of money in contractor labor. Would the filter option be advisable for use with a 30" gas range? The hood is rated at 400cfm.
A properly installed ducted hood will remove heat, grease, steam, odor and smoke. Additionally, I would always use a ducted hood with a gas cooktop. A recirculating hood will only remove grease, odor and a very minimal amount of smoke. A filter is required for the recirculating hood and must be changed periodically or it will cease to function properly. The main advantage of a recirculating hood is that it will give the cook limited ventilation in an area where ducting is impossible. A 400 cfm hood is larger than normal and should be ducted to the outside. If you love to cook you will not regret the additional investment in ducting you hood to the exterior of the home.
Q: What is the seating distance between persons at an island configuration, i.e., six person seating, how much room do I want to allow between each person to sit comfortably?
Allow 24” per person unless the seats have arm rests. If arm rests are part of the stool or chair add 3” in addition to the total width of the chair/stool (including the arm rests).
Q: What is the proper spacing between the bottom of the over-the-range microwave (after installation) and the top of the cooktop once an OTR microwave is installed. The installation manual stated we need 30 min inches from the bottom of the cabinet to the top of the cooktop before installation. We have 34 inches. Once installed, the microwave seem to look to low.
Normally the distance between the bottom of an over-the-range microwave (OTR) and the top of the cooktop is 15”- 18” depending on the manufacturer. If you put the top of your OTR at 34” off of the cooking surface your space between the two should be between 19” and 22”. If you cook often with big pots this space might seem a little tight. A traditional installation of a hood over the cooking surface is 24” minimum. This may be the dimension you are thinking about as standard. Make sure the bottom of the microwave is 3” below the users shoulder height. If it is above that distance you may not be able to see the contents as you remove a dish from the microwave. Serious burns have been attributed to spilling the contents of a microwave dish down the front of the cook. Another thing to consider, if the OTR is too high it may not properly pull the pollutants off of the cooking surface.
Q: I am remodeling the master bathroom. My husband is disabled and I have a few concerns. I want to install heat under the floor. What would you recommend for the safest floor covering to use?
Flooring for a bathroom to meet your needs should be stable, firm and slip resistant. There are several flooring options out there that can be used above heated floor systems. But all of them will not meet the three requirements above. Tile (or stone) would probably be my first choice to meet your needs. If installed properly it is definitely very stable and firm. The down side; it is a hard surface it will not be as forgiving as other surfaces when things are dropped on the floor. But it will stand up to the twisting of the wheels of a wheelchair. If is easy to maintain and should last for years without needing to be replaced. The tile will hold the heat created by the floor heating system and because of its thickness and texture it should be more economical to heat than some other floor options. Now let’s talk about the slip resistant issue. When selecting a tile for your bathroom, look for one with a high COF (coefficient of friction) rating. The ratings range from zero to one. One will be the most slip resistant and zero will be the least. The ADA standard for slip resistance is 0.6. Check with an NKBA member that sells tile or stone and ask them to show you some of the sizes and patterns with a 0.6 COF rating. If you can’t find what you are looking for, another option is to have the surface of the tile coated with a material that will meet or exceed the 0.6 COF rated mentioned above.
Q: We are remodeling our kitchen. We'd like a 42" high center island to accomodate seating for 4. I'd prefer not having multi-level. Any suggestions for how to raise the stock base cabinets and look nice, short of building up the base and having a large toe kick area. My kitchen designer had no other ideas, but I'm sure there must be a way. Thank you.
I have done this twice before with stock cabinets using two different options. Option 1: I built up the top of the cabinets with 6” fillers placed vertically to create a horizontal tray space between the counter and the top of the cabinet. This horizontal opening had a bottom that would be where the countertop is normally. 6” fillers ran from the front of the cabinet to the back and were spaced 18” to 24” apart. The sides and back of the cabinets were covered with panels supplied to match the manufactured cabinets. The cabinets appeared to be 42” high from the back and sides when we were finished. Option 2: For this project I used knee drawer units designed for desks. The drawer units were 6” high. I needed two that were the same size as the two 36” base cabinets. I ordered two 36” knee drawer units and placed them on top of the two 36” base cabinets. The sides and backs were finished the same as mentioned above in option 1. If the drawer units are not the same depth as the base cabinets you can place blocking behind the drawer units to better support the counter. The blocking will be hidden by the panel.
Q: We will be installing a double sink as part of our kitchen remodel. We are planning to get a sink with one large bowl and one smaller bowl that will also house the garbage disposal. Our dishwasher will be on the right of the sink. Should the double sink have the small bowl on the right or the left; or does it really matter?
I normally recommend that the garbage disposer be in the smaller sink. You may want to use the disposer while you have something soaking in the larger sink. If your dishwasher is on the right of the sink then I would also recommend the disposer be in the right bowl closer to the dishwasher. Our dishwasher is to the left of our sink and the disposer is in the left smaller bowl. Scraping the dishes and loading the dishwasher is very easy and less time consuming.
Q: I will be using XXX cabinets in my total small kitchen remodel. Would it be appropriate if I just wanted a kitchen designer to lay out kitchen plans for the use of these cabinets and required storage rather than designing the entire kitchen?
About two years ago I was asked if I could design a kitchen for a prospective client. They told me that they were going to another city and buy their cabinets from the same source you mentioned. Since I do not sell any products I was able to meet their request. You should be able to find an NKBA member in your area that can provide a “design only” service. I will admit that it may require a few phone calls. Start by following this link.
http://nkba.org/consumer_tools_fap.aspx Type in you ZIP code and start calling. If the NKBA member does not offer the service they may be able to suggest another member that will.
Q: Why should I choose a NKBA member over someone else who has been in kitchen and bath design for years?
Let me use myself as an example to answer your question. I became a kitchen and bath designer in 1970. I did not know what the NKBA was until 1986. For 16 years, I thought I knew my craft and I was successful. I sold quality products at fair prices. When I became a member of the NKBA, I was introduced to educational and networking opportunities that I did not know existed. I learned more about the kitchen and bath industry in the first five years of membership than I learned in my first 16. I started selling kitchen and baths instead of boxes, fixtures, and appliances that fit into these to rooms. I learned about electrical, plumbing, and construction issued. I was introduced to the importance of codes that impact the health, safety, and welfare of my clients. I continued on with the NKBA educational programs and am now a Certified Master Kitchen and Bath Designer (CMKBD), a certification through the NKBA. I hope this helps you make a decision. In addition, research shows that NKBA members are usually more experienced than non-members--the average NKBA member has over 14 years of industry experience. This year marks my 35th year in the industry.
Q: i have wood doors walnut in color looks like stain i want to change them to burgany colour what do i need to to.
If I were you, I would take a door sample to a respected paint store in your area and ask their advice. There are so many variables that include wood species and existing finish just to name a couple. After looking at the door, an expert in paint and stain finishes should be able to give you the best advice.
Q: I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen. I have an open style kitchen and living room, with a definite division between the two. I have a header beam and a flooring change, where there used to be a wall. The kitchen side is 9'6" x 21' and livingroom side is 11'6" x 21'. I have created an L shaped kitchen. I have ran 12' of cabinets along the outside wall side to the corner, with a blind corner cabinet in the corner (size is 2' deep x 4' long), then i have the stove, then fridge. The fridge ends up at the 9'6" division between the 2 rooms. Is it wise to put the stove and fridge beside each other? My sink and dishwasher are in the 12' run of cabinets. Next to this run is a patio door, so I cannot put my fridge there. No matter where i put the fridge - it sticks out like a sore thumb. I still want to create an island, with my table/seating built into it, but I am at a standstill. Do you have any suggestions for a long, narrow, open style kitchen/livingroom. I am to the point where i want to pull everything out and start over. I really don't want to move my sink/plumbing, but I would if that was the best option. Could I make this into a gallery style kitchen, with 2 long rows of cabinets, and the fridge tucked into the outside corner. I also have two pre-teen girls, who are taking a keen interest in helping out & are starting to cook, so safety is a pretty big concern.
I would be doing you a disservice to suggest design ideas based on your information. There are so many questions I would need you to answer before I could make a logical suggestion. I do have a few things for you to consider before you “pull everything out and start over”. NKBA does not recommend placing two appliances beside each other if they require a landing space. I will use your range and refrigerator as an example. If you put the range next to the refrigerator where will the cooking pot handles go? If you need to slide a pot off of a burner, there is no where to place it. Imagine a large pot on a burner that is on a high temperature. Where does the heat go as it rises? Would it damage the side of the refrigerator? Where do you place groceries as you load the refrigerator if you have no landing area beside the refrigerator. NKBA Kitchen Planning Guidelines® suggest minimum dimensions for landing areas. Another suggestion relates to your daughters helping out in the kitchen. Since more that one person might be working in the same area, make sure your work isles are wide enough. NKBA recommends that the space between counters or appliances be at least 48” if two people are working in the same space. Finally I recommend that you contact an NKBA Professional in your area and ask for their suggestions. A remodeled kitchen can be a great addition but only if is a safe and convenient work space.
Q: I am getting ready to remodel the small master bath in my 1954 ranch. I do not think there is additional space I can take from other parts of the house. I am considering replacing the tub/shower with a shower only. Is there a standard size for showers these days?
Can I make a comfortable sized shower out of the tub/shower combo?
Think about the “footprint” of the existing tub. When you remove the existing bathtub you will leave a void space in the bathroom. This is the “footprint”. Most bathrooms designed in 1954 met the essentials only. Let’s assume the space meets basic codes. If that is your situation, your new shower will need to fit the “footprint” of the old bathtub. If your old tub was 32” x 60”, this is the total space for your new shower. Now let’s work backwards. Code requires that the minimum shower interior (floor space) be 30” x 30”. If we deduct 30” from our 32” space then the maximum width of the shower curb would be 2”. This would eliminate a 4” wide tile curb. The length is good but with the small width I would suggest you place the shower controls near the opening of the shower so you are not standing in the shower spray as you adjust the water temperature. Drain and venting issues should not be a problem but be sure you have your plan reviewed by a plumber.
Q: We have an L shaped kitchen with a large open area crying out for a stand alone island. We need more counter space and would like to do this with a functional island. Our main issue is that to maximize space in the kitchen, we would have to abut the new island along a wall with three large windows (ie. therefore covering up some of middle window) and likely covering part of a floor AC vent as well. We could circumvent this with getting a "floating island" - that is not attached to any wall, with rougly 10 inches or so from the window and avoiding the AC vent on the floor. The island would mainly be a working surface - ie. no sink, no burners, only granite countertop, and likely drawers/shelves below with the outer aspect having space for seating (breakfast bar like). Any recommendations as to how we should proceed? What are general recommedations for best use of space with out getting too cramped? We have wood floors and burgundy/cherry cabinets with black countertops, and SS appliances. Thanks for the help.
Since you plan to use the island as a work center, the most important issue is proper working space between the island counter and other working surfaces in the kitchen. NKBA has a list of Planning Guidelines you may want to review. Here is the link to the list and illustrations for clarification. http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen.aspx
Make sure the distance between the counter overhang on the island and the front edge of any appliance is at least 42” if you are the only cook. If two people are working in the space, the dimension should be 48”. Consult with a HVAC professional and ask them if the AC duct could be directed into a 3 ¼“x 10” elbow and ducted out through the cabinet toekick to the front or rear of the cabinet. There is a void space (4”-4 ½”) between the floor and the bottom shelf (floor) of the cabinet that will easily accommodate your ducting needs. A floating island is a good optional plan and works well in some small kitchens. A drawback to a floating island is the lack of access to electrical receptacles. All power to the island would be with extension cords and they could become a hazard.
Q: We're planning an L-shaped kitchen, about 12 x 13 with a large island that will seat at least 4 people. We have an open floorplan with the dining room and living room adjacent to the kitchen on the open sizes of the "L". I'd like to put the cooktop on the island to facilitate socialization while cooking, tighten the work triangle and free up counter space. I've also heard that putting the cooktop on the island would reduce the total usable work surface and reduce safety and convenience for those seated at the island. Can you shed some light on the pros and cons of locating the cooktop on the island for a kitchen of our size. Can we do something with a multi-height island surface to address their concerns? What is the minimum island size that would make this workable?
When you place a cooking center in an island there are several things to consider. Let’s look at safety first. NKBA recommends a landing area on one side of the cooking surface of at least 15” in width. On the other side of the cooking center, a counter section of 12” would prevent the burners from being accessed by children or other traffic near the burners. Finally, if the countertop extends behind the cooktop, then NKBA recommends 9” behind the cooking surface. I have provided a link to the NKBA site for a better description of these dimensions: http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen.aspx. See NKBA Guideline #17. These dimensions would not allow both cooking and dining at the island. At this point the total size of the island is 65” in width and 34” in depth including a 1” counter overhang on 3 sides. If you would like to eat on the back of the island add the following to the island dimensions: 18” of knee space for a 30” high counter, 15” knee space for a 36” high counter and 12” of knee space for a 42” counter. See NKBA Guideline #9. Finally be sure you have enough space to work around the island. Work isles should be at least 42”-48”. Traffic areas should be 36”-44”. See NKBA Guideline #9. An island can be a great addition to a kitchen or it could be a huge obstacle. Please consider reviewing you plan with an NKBA design professional.
Q: We are a small family owned business and we're expanding to include commissioned sales people. Are there any forms out there that would help us keep organized as far as commission draw forms, job cost analysis, etc.
While your questions appear straightforward, the answers are anything but simple. Managing commissions, and finding or creating forms to assist in doing so, is completely dependent upon the type of commission structure in place. It is, in many cases, directly tied to profitablility, and thus, leads to your second question about analysis of job costs. Most businesses should have at least a rudimentary method of job costing and analysis. If not, there are "off the shelf" systems available that can help get you started. I believe that commissions, largely, should be derived from and a function of profitability so, before you commit to a commission structure, you need to have in place a method of analyzing your job costs in order to determine profit. Your accountant should be able to provide a good "jumping-off" point in helping to understand and track your job costs and from there, you can develop a commission policy and structure. I recommend strongly that you create a written commission policy and share it with your sales people. They must be "on board" with it in order that it can succeed. We would also highly recommend purchasing the NKBA Professional Resource Library volumes Business Management and Project Management. There are several forms that should be very helpful to you. For more information on these volumes, you can contact NKBA Customer Service at 800-THE-NKBA.
Q: We are installing a bathroom floor. Is it required that you put a layer thin set between the waferboard and backerboard. We just placed the backerboard over the wafer board screwed it down to specifications and then applied the thinset and then tile. Is this incorrect? Thanks
The thinset adhesive is to hold the tile. So what you did is correct. I normally put the backerboard on exterior plywood. Are you sure the waferboard is moisture resistant? If it got wet would it expand? If so your floor may become out of level and cause the grout to crack.
Q: What would be the recommended distance from the bottom of an over-the-range microwave to the top of the stove? I've heard 14" as an acceptable measurement, but I'm not sure if that's up to code.
The code requirement is the distance set by the manufacturer. I have seen distances ranging between 15” and 18” but never 14”. However, you may be OK if that is the manufacturer’s recommendation. Some over-the-range microwaves (OTR) were not designed for all cooking surfaces. If the manufacturer requires a distance of 24” between the cooking surface and a protected surface above, then your OTR may not meet the code. If you are using a basic range then you can generally follow the OTR manufacturer’s requirement. However, if you are using a high Btu gas range or electric range with grilling capabilities, the OTR may not be practical. Regardless of the height of your OTR, make sure the user can see what is in the microwave. If the bottom of the microwave is too high the user may not notice that the cooking vessel is about to spill over. As they remove the container they spill the contents down the front of them resulting in serious injury. NKBA recommends that the bottom of the microwave be at least 3” below the user’s shoulder height. This safe height will rule out the OTR for some clients.
Q: New home just built with island and cabinates in kitchen installed on top of laminate flooring. Island includes: granite counter top; under-mount sink; garb-orator; and, one electrical outlet. Our question: we would like to install hard wood flooring within this area. The flooring will be sealed prior to re-installation. How do we remove the island without causing damage to granite, island cabinet, electrical and plumbing? Or, do you recommend installing wood floor without removal of island and components? Are the cabinates fastened to the floor by glue, fastners, or free standing (not attached)?
Thanks
Your island will be securely fastened to the floor because of plumbing and electrical connections. A typical method is to attach a rectangular form to the floor then slip the island over the form and attach the base of the island. The labor will be intensive to pull up the island to place wood flooring below it. Since you have a “garb-orator” I assume you are from Canada. In your area would your installer be able to do all of the electrical and plumbing as well as the other labor? If not, these additional trades will add to the cost of removing the island. I assume you will not be removing any other base cabinets either.
Normally I would recommend that the flooring go under the cabinetry for the reasons discussed in an earlier question, (be sure to read my answer). If you choose to install the flooring without removing the base cabinetry, make sure the joint where the edges of the wood and the vertical side of the toekick is well sealed. Additionally, the height of the toekick space (4-4 ½”) will be reduced by the thickness of the laminate flooring and pad (if used) which in your case should not be an issue.
Q: What is the difference between free standing ranges and slide-in ranges?
Free-standing ranges will be finished on each side and will have a backsplash that extends vertically at the back of the cooking surface. The backsplash may or may not contain the burner controls. This type of range is designed to fit between cabinets and two separate sections of countertop. It would be designed to fit against a wall. The slide-in range is not finished on each side and does not include a backsplash. It is designed to slide into a deep recess in the counter. The controls are on the front edge below the burners or on the deck surface between the burners. The slide-in is perfect for islands and peninsula installations.
Q: Re. granite countertops
I'm have been planning to have my kitchen countertops replaced with granite. Recently news articles and items I've read indicate that granite countertops can/do emit radon. I really have a concern about that. What do you know about that issue? If I don't replace then with granite, what other material would you recommend that I consider? I also need to keep resale as a consideration.
I am glad you asked this question. Please follow the link to the Marble Institute of America. http://www.marble-institute.com/ They have a recent report that addresses radon testing for granite and other countertops. The link to the report is:
http://www.marble-institute.com/industryresources/radontesting_u-akron2008.pdf
Q: What cleaning products can I use for my bath & shower (cultured marble and polyvinyl)?
The National Kitchen and Bath Association membership includes many manufacturers of products that include a wide variety of surfaces. Anytime I get a question on a specific product, or in this case surface, I suggest that the consumer visit the website of the association representing the specific product. I have included the link to the International Cast Polymer Alliance. I believe they will give you the best advice. I have cultured marble in a shower and I use a shampoo both for my head and the walls. I do this for three reasons. It is non-abrasive, a liquid soap and it is already in the shower. http://www.icpa-hq.org/consumers/caretips.cfm
Q: What are some guidelines on proper spacing between a range and the wall? Is there a certain distance that is required?
These dimension requirements are more than just NKBA Planning Guidelines©. These are code issues. Regardless of where you live, codes require that appliances, such as ranges, must be installed according to the manufacture’s instructions. I have seen some installation instructions require as little as 2” for an electric cooktop to 8” for a gas cooktop. Each range or cooktop will have its own requirement based on the location of controls, type of fuel, etc. To be sure, access the manufacture’s website and check your appliance by model number. I typically allow myself 12” between the edge of a cooking appliance deck and a vertical surface to be safe, but I always check the manufacturer's website first.
Q: Is there a rule-of-thumb for how much I should budget for a kitchen update or remodel?
Yes, but it is a big range and needs some explanation. Experts suggest that a complete kitchen remodel should be between 10% and 25% of the value of your home. This figure assumes a complete remodel including all equipment and labor. If you plan to remodel your kitchen to improve your chances of selling your home you will want to stay in the area of 10%. If you plan to remain in your home for several years and would like the kitchen customized for your needs, you would be closer to the 25% figure. If you think you might live in your home for only a few years you may want to stay around the 15% to 20% range. The most important thing is to get the kitchen you want. A kitchen remodel is a good investment in your home. However, if you spend close to the 25% figure and remain in the home for only a short period of time you may not recoup your investment in the project.
Q: I have had an undermount sink and granite countertops installed. I'm concerned with the way the sink looks. The granite overhangs the sink just a bit, but there is a gap between the sink and the bottom of the granite. In talking with the installers, they tell me that this gap is caused by the polishing of the granite on the underside. It is specifically noticable where the bridge of the two sinks is, just below the faucet. I feel it is an eyesore and it just doesn't seem right to me. Is this proper? How would you recommend I resolve this issue? Thanks!
The first thing you need to do is to determine if there is a “standard” as to how the finished product should look. In shopping for counter/sink options, did you select an option you liked? Do you have the same installation as the example you viewed during your visit to the showroom? Within the kitchen and bath industry, there are several standards as to how thing are installed. Often the consumer visualizes one thing and the actual industry standard is different. This could be your situation. If your sink installation is different than the example in a showroom, for the exact same product, then you should point that out to the dealer or fabricator. If the installation is typical for that type of product, then one option is to fill the void with a sealant that matches the granite. That may solve the problem and make the joint between the sink and top easier to clean.
Q: How much square footage should a kitchen use in relation to the overall size of the house? Our home is about 4000 sq ft. but the kitchen is 192 sq ft. Everytime we viewed the house prior to purchase - I kept thinking this kitchen is way too small for this house. The house sat on the market for 6 months with the only complaint being the kitchen size. We bought it with the understanding that we had to remodel the kitchen if we ever wanted to sell this house later. I just want to keep the kitchen in relative scale to the other homes in this similar size.
Thanks
This is a great question. There are two things to think about here; resale value (short term investment) or your personal lifestyle (long term value). If you are planning to sell the house in the near future, I would visit homes in your area and see if there is a typical size kitchen that is more common. Remember, when it comes time to sell your home you will be competing with similar homes in your area. The other option is to design the kitchen to meet your family’s needs. An NKBA member can suggest many options from a kitchen that includes a great room for large family gatherings to a cozy kitchen for the empty nesters. We opted for the open look and my neighbor’s first comment when they saw the finished product was “this is you." It fit our unique need and personality.
Q: Why would some state plumbing codes require installation of a waste disposer appliance? Would a waste disposer be considered a cooking appliance? Does it makes a difference when you have a twin/double sink and a dishwa