Q: Our designer and general contractor have shown us a kitchen layout with the refrigerator in a corner adjacent to a wall. At our request, they added 10" on the wall side for door swing clearance. But I still don't think this is enough (especially if we ever want to remove the drawers for cleaning). I've looked online for manuals and only a few directly address this issue. A couple have higher clearances than 10", depending on the style of refrigerator, for full access. Others say to allow about 2"-3" to the wall simply to open the door for drawer access. Is there a good rule-of-thumb for the clearance? Or is it more a matter of personal preference?
It all depends on the refrigerator. If you have decided on a refrigerator, check the specifications on that exact model. The minimum door opening for crisper and shelf removal should be listed. However, to be safe, why not add a utility cabinet between the wall and the refrigerator. Utility cabinets are a great addition. They can be fitted with adjustable shelves, roll-out shelves or left open for broom or ironing board storage. Widths typically start at 18” but you may find some as narrow as 12”-15”. The 2” – 3” space you mentioned is for the door to open 90º allowing room for the door handle. If space is at a minimum, consider a refrigerator that will open slightly more then 90º and at the same time will allow access to crispers.
Q: I'm sick of scrubbing grout on the walls around my bathtub/shower. I want to redo the surround with 3 large sheets of stone, one for each wall. Which kind of stone stands up best to the daily assault of water, soap, and shampoo, plus cleaning products? A certain kind of marble? A variety of granite? Is there one that will keep its polished surface longer and won't pit? Color isn't important, we'll decorate around whatever you suggest.
Most natural stone products will be porous. This will require basic maintenance. You may find that you have exchanged one laborious activity for another. Consider some of the man-made products such as solid surface or cultured marble products. These require very little maintenance, will last for years and are available in many colors.
Q: We just installed new granite counters and the Arborite counters had a lip which covered the space between the drawers and the counters and now we have a space, also in the dishwasher area. How do we fix this space.
The thickness of the front edge of the laminate and granite should be approximately the same, 1 ½ inch or 3 ½ centimeters. When the counter is installed, the top will rest on top of the base cabinets. This will leave the same distance between the top of the drawer face or dishwasher and the bottom of the countertop. It is possible that your laminate top was not installed properly. Laminate tops are typically ¾” thick with a build-up along the front edge, sides and randomly space where the bottom of the counter meets the top sides of base cabinets. I have seen laminate tops purchased by the DIY consumer installed without the build-up strip. This will allow the front edge to drop down 3/4” in front of the top of the base cabinet. This may be your problem. If it is, you need to raise the laminate top by adding build-up strips below the counter to lift it up.
Q: What type of hardwood floor color/species would compliment my cherry cabinets in my kitchen?
You can use Brazilian cherry, but that might be too matchy. Why not try oak or mahogany, wood with a red undertone. Please do not use wood with yellows in it, it will fight the cherry wood.
Q: My house is 22 years old. A sink is in front of my closet for my master bedroom. The rest of the fixtures (toilet, bathtub and shower) are behind a closed door. When we remodel the bathroom should we group the four fixtures into one space or keep the sink separated?
I will assume you have room for only one lavatory in your bath space. Many people find it convenient to have a lavatory outside of the toilet tub/shower area. This allows one person to be in a private space while the other person can continue with other grooming activities that are not so private. Others think the fixtures should all be located in the same bath space. The choice is yours. Several manufacturers produce cabinets that will blend in with your bedroom furniture. Your vanity lavatory and cabinet could become a focal point in your bedroom. A vessel lav on a marble top could be right at home in your master suite. Remember, 100 years ago many homes had a water picture with a wash basin in the bedroom. What was old is new again.
Q: What is the clearness for microwave over rang from top of element to the bottom of microwave?
Yes, but it varies per manufacturer. The variation I have seen is between 15” to 18” off of the cooking surface. Be sure to check with the microwave and range manufacture. If the microwave is installed too close it could void the warrantee.
Q: I have a small bathroom that I am remodeling. My home was built in the late 50s. To make the bathroom look bigger should I just place tile around the tug/shower, from the ceiling to the top of the tub or should I title the whole bathroom. And should the title around the tub/shower be the same on the floor.
Placement of tiles around the tub area and matching it to the floor tile will definitely make the room look larger. However, if you tile the complete bathroom floor to ceiling in the same color tiles, preferably on the light side, it will appear to look even larger. If you use a different tile on the walls of the shower/tub than the floor, it will cut the room size visually.
Q: Can you please advise me how many estimates you should get before hiring a contractor for a kitchen remodel? When asking a contractor for references, how many should they furnish to you? Is there a better way to locate possible contractors than by asking family and friends? I am in need of a total kitchen remodel but I am also in need of new siding and windows. I have three contractors in mind but I was wondering if 5 estimates are too many. I have seen the outside work of some homes in my town. I was thinking of just knocking on their door and asking questions. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The “Rule of Three” should apply to both of your questions; three estimates and three references. You might also check the local Better Business Bureau for any complaints against you three choices. I would suggest you start by logging on to the NKBA site and look for a NKBA member near you. Be sure you have a budget in mind for the project before contacting a dealer. It will save you a lot of time.
Q: We are in the process of getting quotes and ideas from kitchen designers. They all quote prices without installation. What is a ballpark figure for cabinet, flooring, countertop etc. installation? This will help us with our budget. Thanks
You have asked a question that I can not answer without a lot of additional information. There are too many variables. Some cabinet installers price the job per cabinet, others by the hour or project and some will base the installation cost on the total price of the cabinets. Flooring is usually priced by the square foot or square yard. The price of granite and solid surface counters will be installed by the fabricator so their cost per top will include the installation. Tile and laminate tops are priced by the job, square foot or lineal foot. Finally prices can vary by location. I would suggest you ask the companies that are furnishing the products if they have any people they can recommend for the installation of their products. They can quote you prices for their specific work. Another option would be to hire a carpenter that is skilled in kitchen installation. I am sure there are several skilled people in your area that would love to work for a couple of weeks.
Q: Hi-I am doing a complete overhaul of my kitchen to open it up into the den. It is only 12 ft wide and can be anywhere from 15-21 feet long before the true den comes in. One side of the 12 foot is the staircase wall and you need to walk through the kitchen to get to the front of the house. I would like seating in the kitchen but don't want a blank wall or hallway. Do I have enough room to do an island with counters on both sides?
Your answer is solved by math. Let’s start with 144”, the width of your kitchen. If you have cabinets on each side of the two wall kitchens you would deduct 50” (24” deep cabinets with a 25” deep top). We have 94” left. NKBA Planning Guidelines suggest that you plan a 42” work space in front of each counter. If two people use the same space the 42” increases to 48”. If we use the smaller number of 42” we would deduct 84” from our subtotal of 94”. We now have room for a 10” island. As you can see, an island in your kitchen would not be practical. I have attached a link to the NKBA Planning Guidelines. You might contact an NKBA member in your area and see of a short peninsula is a possibility for seating at one end of the kitchen. http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen.aspx Please look at Guideline #6, #7 and #8.
Q: We put light switches and outlets under our new cabinets with LED lights. Now you see a shadow on the wall of the boxes under the cabinet. Would a trim on the bottom of the cabinet help this problem?
You need to return to your cabinet dealer and ask to see the “Light Rail Moulding” that would match your cabinets. If you have framed cabinets, you can hide ¾” lighting under the bottom of the wall cabinets. If you have frameless cabinets you must have light rail moulding to hide the lighting. The height of the light rail moulding will be determined by the height/thickness of your lights, receptacles and switches.
Q: We are trying to decide on a sink material for a kitchen remodel. We are installing quartz countertops and would like an undermounted sink. How do the newer granite(quartz) sinks perform over time and are they easy to maintain?
First you need to understand that a granite sink and a quartz sink are two different things. Additionally, granite sinks could be solid granite or a “granite based” material. I will assume your question is about the advantages of granite based and quartz composite. To answer your question I have included information from the NKBA publication Kitchen and Bath Products. This book is part of the NKBA Profession Resource Library. Granite Based. The most scratch-resistant sink material on the market today is a “granite” composite. These sinks offer stain, chemical and scratch resistance. They also offer the highest level of durability because of the extremely high density of rock particles at the sink’s surface. Granite based sinks are available only in matte finishes: therefore, the consumer is not offered the “glossy” look of other options. Quartz Composite. With a combination of 70% quartz and 30% resin filler, quartz composite sinks provide a durable surface. These sinks can resist everyday cuts, scuffs and dents, and can easily stand up to harsh cleaning materials or liquids that might stain other sinks. Quartz composite sinks are available in a variety of colors. Because the color is uniform throughout, the material never loses its original color. Once again, quartz sinks are available in a matte finish only, rather than the glossy look of a cast iron sink.
Q: I saw an aftermarket product that was a synthetic countertop, very thin, that was placed over an existing laminate countertop. Do you have any experience or any information about this product?
There are several countertop overlays that could meet you description. Some are a combination of ground glass, Portland cement and fly ash. Others are a paper based product or aluminum chips. Almost all of these tops use recycled materials. These tops are very eco-friendly. The waste products are combined with resins, cement or epoxy to hold them together. Since they are not a natural material they will be very stable, less likely to break and scratch compared with the same material found in nature. A good example is granite. If you had a ¼” layer of granite, it would be very fragile while a granite composite would be very durable. Once it is placed over a good solid base (your old countertop) if would be much more resistant to impact. Thin granite tiles are made similar to the counter overlay. I can not provide a better answer since I am not sure of the material you have seen. However, since granite composites are very popular I will address them. This type of counter would not need the same care as natural granite. It is more scratch resistant than natural granite and it weights far less. The disadvantages are few but the ability to repair the product is one. But repairing broken granite is also a problem. Check references carefully before you select a dealer for your new countertop. Regardless of the quality of the product a bad installation will ruin the investment in your home.
Q: I am having my kitchen redone, and have just discovered bamboo kitchen cabinets. Would they be veneer, or solid wood? I have read that bamboo is touchy in humid situations (i.e. can it warp). Since kitchens are frequently humid, can you tell me if bamboo is a good choice for cabinets?
Bamboo is a very stable material. It is used for flooring and wood panels. It is not likely to warp or shrink because of its dimensional stability. It is not wood but is a grass that is harder than common hardwoods used for cabinets. If you were to look at a cross section of a ¾” panel you would notice layers of bamboo rather than a ¾” thick piece of bamboo. It is also available as a countertop material for kitchens and baths. It is a good option for todays kitchens and baths. If you use bamboo you are “going green”.
Q: I have seen these marble ceramic tile composites. There is a thin layer of marble on a ceramic backing, and what I would like to know how is this marble set on the ceramic tile? Do they use aviation epoxy and if so does is there any off gas?
This is a very product specific question and should be answered by the manufacturer of the product you are considering. Before I could answer this question I would need to know the manufacturer and product number. As you are aware products manufactured outside of the US and Canada may not meet the same standards as domestic products. Additionally, products made in North America will be manufactured differently. To save you time, I would suggest you contact the manufacturer directly.
Q: We have 1940s lodge style home complete with exposed beams and a large stone fireplace. A kicthen was added in the early 1990s (white cabinets, black appliances, black granite countertops and a light salmon colored floor) and has a 90s uttra modern angular feel. The rest of the house is decorated in warm tones (golds, brick tones, sage green, browns How can we update the kitchen to warm it up? New door and drawer pulls, paint the walls (we were thinking a light sage). Any ideas? Also we eventually want to remodel the kitchen with stainless appliances and change the granite and tile. What are your thoughts on an incouter ventilation system v. a hood in terms of which is better at suckng out odors? We currently have a cooktop with a in counter system and double wall overs. I would like to switch to a large dual fuel range with a hoodthis however, will require reconfiguring the kitchen.
Since you have exposed beams and a large stone fireplace......painting the walls a sage color (sage on the warm side, yellow undertone........... I would faux paint the wall in crackle finish to age the walls.....that would warm it up. Using stainless steel appliances will update the look of your kitchen. It doesn't necessarily add warmth to the kitchen but it would lightnen it up, weight wise. Black is heavy. However, black countertops with white cabinets will always be in style. They are timeless. If your in-counter is working fine, keep it for now. A hood is always a better way to go when using a gas cooktop.
Q: We just bought a house and we are getting ready to redo the master bathroom. The house has stained wood framed windows and all the doors are stained wood. All the ceiling crown moulding is painted white. Is this okay from a design perspective? I know a lot of builders are painting window trim, crown mouldings and doors white, so I didn't know if wood stain look dates the design. I kind of like the wood look. To me it gives the rooms a warmer feel. Just wanted your opinion on this.
What I am hearing from you is that you like the warm feeling in your home. Because your window frames, doors and door trims are wood, it would be nice to have the crown moulding stained wood also. If your ceilings are high, i.e., 9'0" or over, I would definitely suggest that you stain the moulding and also the base moulding the wood color. On the other hand if your ceilings are 8'0" or under, I suggest you keep the crown white. Keeping it white will give the illusion that your ceilings are higher than they are if they are 8'0" or under.
Q: We are in the final stages of a new kitchen installation. Very uncertain about island dimension. The island is 24 5/8 X 51 3/8". It calls for a 15" overhang which is in front of a wall cabinet. The space from that edge to a wall cabinet is 48". There is 36" from one end of the island to the stove which is going to be tight....and there is 38 1/2 " from the drawer side of the island to the sink. All counters and island will be covered with granite. 2 recessed lights are already centered over island. I know it is a tight space. We do not need to have island seating. I feel the 12" overhang looks heavy sided on the island. Would it look right with a 10" overhang (no seating) for extra workspace....OR should we completely remove the overhang and push the island back a few inches from the sink? It's been an overwhelming project!! Please help.
I would eliminate the seating since you indicated it is not needed and add space in front of the sink and the range. NKBA recommends 42” of work space in front of sinks, cooking surfaces and refrigerator if a single cook is working in the kitchen and 48” for two people sharing the same space. If the location of the recessed lights is a problem with the new island location, convert them to suspended fixtures or track lights for task lighting. With a 1” overhang for the counter you will have a functional work island conveniently located in your new kitchen.
Q: My house has six bedroom suites {including the master bath}. I have two bathrooms with tiled showers, three bathrooms with tub/shower acrylic units, and a master with separate tub and shower. Would I lose home value replacing the acrylic units with tiled showers or should I have tubs with tiled walls and showerheads? The master bath and a tiled shower bath are on the main floor. The upstairs has two of the acrylic unit baths. The lower level has a tiled shower bath and an acrylic unit bath. The house is roughly 10,000 square feet.
Most people prefer a shower over a bathtub for daily bathing. Therefore, I would have a shower available in each bathroom. You currently have that. If two people share a bath they may prefer a shower large enough for two people with separate controls for their individual needs. I would also suggest a bathtub on every level which you have now. However, converting one of the upper bathrooms from a tub/shower to a two person shower would make the perfect choice in you home for both quests and family members. If you alter a bath on the main level consider making the bathroom and shower area large enough to accommodate a wheelchair or walker. Before making any changes why not ask the same question of a local real estate agent for a second opinion.
Q: My $6,000.00 fridge was not installed correctly by the contractor who put the kitchen back together after a water leak. The fridge is smashed into the corner and the door won’t open enough to pull the crispers out so they can be cleaned. The bill has not been paid yet as the trim under the cabinets still needs to be corrected because it is 1/2 inch short now. The granite counters are already in. Do I make them take it out and put the fridge in according to the directions? Will this incorrect installation make my warranty void? Please help ASAP. They want to finish up here.
Your refrigerator must be installed correctly for two reasons. First if a problem with the installation causes the unit to fail, the repairs may not be covered under the manufacturer’s warranty. Also, most local and national codes require that appliances be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If the crispers can not be removed properly, the refrigerator is not installed properly.
Q: What is the recommended dimensions of a built in shower bench. The overall shower is 60" l x 36" w 48" for the base with the built-in bench beyond the base & attached. We're planning an enclosed bench (that is there's a riser piece, it's not open under the bench) that's 30" w (can't make it the full 36" due to framing/shower wall setup), 17" h, 15" d. What do you think/recommend? I need an answer fast, like today. Sorry. I can't find what the ADA (American with Disabilities Act) might have to say on the subject. Any guidance today would be appreciated. Regards, Dan
NKBA recommends a height of between 17”- 19” above the shower floor and a depth of 15” for shower seats. If the shower seat is for someone with a disability please follow this link for additional dimensions: http://nkba.org/guidelines/bathroom_12.aspx
Q: I am looking to have our kitchen cabinets refinished. They are not old but I don't like the color and always wanted cherry cabinets. Money is an issue so refinishing is the best solution. However, I was told by the contractor that he could not refinish my cabinets to a cherry color if they were made of maple. I have been researching on the internet all day and I haven't found any site that states this. He said he could only refinish the cabinets in a cherry finish if the cabinets were made of oak, otherwise the job does not look professional and he would not do it. Can you please give me your opinion on this issue?
I have seen cabinets sold as “Cherry Finished” cabinets that were maple, finished with a cherry colored stain. While a few might think the cabinets were actually cherry, the manufacturer was clear in their specifications that the wood was maple. So we do know that maple with a cherry finish will look great. The problem is how can we remove the stain applied to your cabinets and add a cherry finish so your cabinets will look like cherry cabinets. Removing paint is easy. Labor intensive but the bare wood can be exposed. Stained wood is a different situation. Once the stain is absorbed into the wood it will be difficult to remove it. That may be the concern with the contractor. You did not indicate the color of the existing finish of your cabinets. That could be a major factor since the darker the cabinet the greater the problem with changing colors. I suggest you take a cabinet door to a major paint supplier and ask their opinion. If they have been in the business for several years they should be able to offer the best suggestion after looking at the door.
Q: We are building a new home which is 'transitional' style (fundamentals are traditional with more contemporary trims and finishes). We have decided for an off-white painted kitchen with absolute black granite counters and mahogany floors. We have paneled appliances with exception of wall ovens (stainless) and chrome fixtures. Ceilings are 10' (extra-long cabinet heights) and cabinets are inset construction. Any recommendations for pulls (colour and design)? We were thinking of stainless or chrome, but now wonder about a black finish instead. We want something more contemporary but not too trendy. Thanks!
In keeping with the transitional styling, I would suggest the following: Hardware Finish: Weathered hammered pewter (it has specs of black in it). It will compliment the black countertop. Style: Cup pulls for the drawers and knobs for the doors or 4" pulls on the horizontal for the drawers and knobs for the doors.
Q: Re: Bath Remodel: We are remodeling a 6' x 8', 1955 bathroom. Plans include gutting the space and installing new drywall, then tile over the drywall. What is the recommended height for the tile in an alcove tub/shower area? Is it necessary to tile the ceiling above the combo tub/shower? What is the recommended height for installing tile on the remaining walls? Thank you. PS Your site is very informative and much appreciated.
First be sure the drywall is approved for use with tile in damp areas. There are much better choices for tile installation in a bathroom than drywall you would use in the living room. The International Residential Code (IRC) requires that the wall areas above the tub or shower pan be covered in a waterproof martial to the height of not less than 72” above the finished floor of the tub or shower. If you or anyone using the shower is above 5’10” you might consider raising the shower head. If the shower head is raised then NKBA recommends the shower wall covering be at least 3” above the stub-out height of the shower head to avoid splashing of water when washing your hair. With proper ventilation and a standard height ceiling you would not need to tile the ceiling. The rest of the walls could be covered for the first four feet but consider the height of wall switches. I would stop the top of a tile wall just below the bottom of the switch plate.
Q: We just had our semi-custom cabinets installed for our kitchen remodel and the several of the draw fronts are stained lighter than the rest of the cabinets. I am wondering how much variation is typical and what our options would be to get a better match. Also, our shelf brackets are made from plastic - is that a standard material? We are concerned that it will not be strong enough to hold the shelves with all of our plates, etc.
Plastic shelf clips are typical for shelving on kitchen and bath cabinets and should not be a concern. Most of the cabinets built in North America are tested through the Kitchen Cabinet Manufactures Association (kcma.org). Part of the testing procedure includes loading the shelves with 15 lbs. of weight per square foot for seven days to test for deflection or failure. As far as the drawer fronts, much of the variation of the color could be attributed to the wood species and the darkness of the stain that is applied. As an example, natural stained hickory can vary from a light grain to very dark grain on the same drawer front. I would expect the variation to be more on semi-custom cabinets than custom. I would suggest that you visit the showroom where you purchased the cabinets and look at some of the samples or display for consistency of stain coloring. It is possible that you may have a drawer front that did not receive all of the stain. I am sure the dealer would be happy to visit you home and address your concerns. Remember, the beauty of stained wood is that no two drawer fronts will ever look the same.
Q: We are planning a bathroom remodel. We did a kitchen remodel about 6 years ago. Should we match our bathroom vanity to our kitchen cabinets? Our kitchen cabinets are maple, and I can't make up my mind if that is what I want in the bathroom. What other choices are workable? The only other thing I know I like is light and dark mixed (countertop and wood).
Think about treating the bath as an entirely different space. If it is used mainly by the children, involve them in the planning. If it’s the master bath it should be tied into the bedroom. For a guest bath consider the appearance. As far as size, if it is small consider cool and lighter colors. Take your time visiting NKBA dealers in your area for ideas. You idea of light and dark mixed cabinets and counters is a great idea.
Q: I am trying to choose sconce lighting for my new home bathrooms. One bathroom will need a light over the two pedestal sinks with medicine cabinets above them. I thought a double light is best but I can't find any guidelines for size. Should the light be the width of the sink and what determines the height? I have 9ft ceilings. What about single sconces on the sides of the vanity mirror? How do I know what is the right side for those lights? Too small or too large could ruin the whole look. Also, should the finish on the lights match cabinet hardware or the faucet finish or should they all be the same? I'm going for an older, warmer look for my log home.
The first thing to know about sconce lighting for the bathroom is that their function is to provide shadow fill. The main lighting for the vanity should be from above, whether it be wall mount or preferably recessed ceiling lights. The resulting downlight will produce shadows on the face which are filled by the sconce lighting. Never rely on sconce lighting alone for makeup application. Placement of the sconces should be between 24 inches to 36 inches apart and equidistant from the center axis of the face (either side of a vanity mirror should work well). One sconce will provide an uneven light to the face. The fixture height should be about eye level so it is important to establish whether the area will be used while standing or sitting. Make sure that if the sconces are placed lower for use while seated that the fixture still looks good from a standing height as well; no exposed wiring or exposed internals. It is hard to suggest the size of the fixture other than to say that the fixture should be in proportion to the other elements in the area. The sconce should obviously shed light forward toward the face, whether it also provides light above and/or below is immaterial. The finish on the fixture can match other finishes in the room as long as it doesn't become too much. A contrasting finish can also provide a nice varietal element. A rustic finish could complement the rougher hewn textures found in a log home. Good luck with your project!
Q: I am getting ready to design a window bench seating area. Utilizing stock cabinetry, how high off the floor should the top of the cabinetry be to allow for proper seat height including a 1 1/2" countertop? I plan on putting a standard 1 1/2" thick laminate top on it. And I want to use a 4 1/2" high base board at the bottom, so how much does that leave me for a cabinet?
If you plan to use stock cabinetry the only choice is a 12” high cabinet. The next size stock cabinet would be 14” or 15” in height. Here is the math. 12” (cabinet height) + 4 ½” (base board) + 1 ½” (laminate top) = 18”. Most chairs are between 17” - 19” to the top of the seat. That would allow 1” for a cushion on top of the laminate top for comfort. If that is too high to suit your needs consider combining the top with the cushion. That would be more comfortable to sit on during dining.
Q: I need to replace my trash can brackets?
The first thing to do is to contact the company that furnished the cabinets. That will be your best option. If you do not know who furnished the cabinetry, try to determine the manufacturer. Many cabinet makers stamp their drawers with their name or you may find their name on a blue and white KCMA sticker inside one of the sink base cabinet doors. If you do find the manufacturer, contact them through the Internet and explain your problem. If none of those options work, consider this. Few cabinet manufacturers make their own metal or plastic cabinet accessories. They buy those items from outside vendors. I have provided a link to two of them below. You can visit their sites and search for “Pull-out Trash Cans”. If all else fails take the bracket to a few kitchen dealers near you. Someone will be able to help you even if the cabinets are several years old. http://www.hafele.com/us/index.htm or http://www.rev-a-shelf.com/
Q: I am in the process of remodeling a small galley kitchen, and will be eliminating a bar sink not too far from my stove to gain addition counter space. Should I consider installing a pot filler above my 30" dual fuel slide-in range if I have an OTR. The bottom of the microwave will be 17" above the grates on the range, and my tallest pot is 10". I have never seen a picture of one used with an OTR. Will the space look too tight?
I would not recommend a pot filler below an over-the-range microwave (OTR). Not only will the space be too tight but it will also be impractical. The advantage of a pot filler is to put water into larger pots that would be inconvenient to move from the sink to the cooktop. If the pot filler is to be used it must be located high over the cooking center. It would be located based on higher pots. Plus you must be able to move the pot filler in the direction of use. All of this would require space between the cooking surface and the range hood above. However, the bottom of the OTR is typically 15”-18” off of the cooking surface. As you said yours is 17”. If you raise the ORT it may not function properly, could void the warranty and could be too high to use safely.
Q: We have just finished doing a total remodel of our kitchen from floor to ceiling. We moved the over the range microwave and installed a new built in microwave above the counter on the opposite side of the kitchen. The issue is the bottom of the microwave is 58" above the floor causing my wife who is 5'3" to reach up to use it. The bottom row of control buttons is at 61". I am concerned there is a potential accident waiting to happen. Even some of the workers thought it was to high but we were told wait until the job is finished. The bottom of the cabinet is 19" above the counter top. In this situation is there a definite maximum height above the counter so we can see if the builder can lower the cabinet. A quick response would be greatly appreciated.
You should be concerned about the height of you microwave. NKBA recommends the bottom of the microwave be no higher than 54” off of the floor. But more important we also recommend that the bottom of the micro be placed at the user’s height. The bottom should be located 3” below the user’s shoulder height. This would allow the user to see inside the micro before removing an item. I have provided the link to the NKBA Website that addresses this issue. http://www.nkba.org/guidelines/kitchen_21.aspx See Planning Guideline #21
Q: We have natural maple cabinets with brushed nickel knobs, uba tuba premium granite countertops, tumbled stone backsplash, light beige tile floor, S/S appliances, sink, and brushed faucet. I need help with the paint color. I have a sample of BM Cheyenne Green on the wall. Will this color compliment the kitchen? We have put a lot of work into our kitchen remodel and I want to make sure I choose the right paint color. Suggests? If you have other suggests, please provide me with the specific paint color name(s) and where to find it.
I think you made some good choices in your selection. I just looked up on the BM fan deck Cheyenne Green. Yes it does compliment the uba tuba. Having the natural maple cabinets against the Cheyenne Green creates contrast which is lovely. What I think you should do, is get a sample of BM Paris rain and sweet spring. I don't know how much light you have coming into the house. If it is bright the Cheyenne should work well. Try the other two, so you can have some other choices, you might be pleasantly surprised. All three will work.
Q: What is the recommended installation height off the countertop for a wall mount lavatory faucet. An example being a Kohler Memoirs K-T448 Wall mount lavatory faucet over a Kohler Ladena undermounted lavatory sink. Thanks
According to the Kohler Website the distance between the faucet spout and the rim of the fixture must be at least 1 ½” to 6”. If you want to wash your face at the sink the distance would be closer to the 6" max. height. But watch mirror locations. They need to be considered with wall mounted faucets. Check out the following for more installation information: http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1109007_4.pdf
Q: We have a new granite counter top and D shaped kitchen sink, (depth 9 inches plus 1 and 1/2 inches of counter) in our newly renovated kitchen. Which type of faucet is easier to use - single handle control on the right side or single handle control on the top of the faucet? How far into the middle of the sink should a single handle control faucet with a pull down sprayer reach? What is the best height above the counter for the faucet head and sprayer so splashing can be avoided? Thanks.
The location of the control would be a person preference. Obviously a single control is easier that two separate controls. If you are right handed the single control on the right would be more comfortable to use. Not so natural if you are left handed. If the controls are on top of the faucet they will not be in a typical location and may take a while for smooth operation to become normal. But the area behind the sink will look more open with the controls built into the faucet. This is more important in an island or peninsula sink installation. The faucet should reach far enough into the sink to allow the user to hold an object below the water stream without bumping their hands on the sides of the sink. Also think about filling pots. Could you fill a pot without hitting the sides of the sink? The height above the sink can vary based on your use. Some people like goose neck faucets so the faucet is out of the way while washing big pots. The faucet aerator will normally prevent splash. Make sure your faucet has one.
Q: I am planning a complete kitchen remodel and am struggling with what surface to use for the counters. My cabinets are deep toned (kaffe) cherry in a Shaker door style. I love the look and feel of a marble counter, both for the visual contrast to the dark cabinets and for the timeless quality it adds to the space. I have been warned repeatedly about the problems of marble staining, pitting and chipping. I know stains and pits can be removed/repaired, but I do not want to commit to such a high level of maintenance for a counter surface that will be in a highly used kitchen. I love to cook, and I don't want to be worrying constantly about my counters while I'm working in the kitchen. I haven't found any granite that appeals to me the way marble does, nor do I care for the composite surfaces, which lack the organic feel I'm seeking. A local granite and stone dealer suggested I consider quartzite. From what I can find, it is a naturally occurring stone that has the durability of granite with a veining pattern more reminiscent of marble and is available in a range of colors from white/gray to cream/green and blue. I have seen a few samples and am intrigued by the lighter colored ones, such as Snow White and Super White as viable substitutes for marble. But quartzite does not appear to be widely available from most stone dealers. What experience do you have with this product for a counter and what do you see as the pros and cons of quartzite? Any information you can provide would be appreciated.
I am not sure quartzite is your best choice for a kitchen counter for the following reasons. Because of its texture, is most often used for pavers and flooring. Since it is not commonly used for counters, it could take a while for the material to arrive. Also, it would be difficult to see a sample of the actual top at a stone yard since it is not that common. Quartzite is like other stone products; one-of-a-kind. A sample you see in a showroom may not be anything like the product when it arrives at your home. If you are interested in a quartzite counter you may need to settle on tile rather than a slab typical with marble and granite.
Q: We are using laminate countertop in our kitchen remodel. This will be a well used kitchen for feeding family with lots of cooking and baking. We have a large L shaped area with about 25 linear feet of counter minus the stove and sink areas and an 8 linear foot island with eating area. We are looking at the 2 major manufacturers. One has technology that is 3 to 5 times more wear resistant than normal laminate, but the surface is high gloss and high gloss with texture. In your opinion, will that gloss surface wear as well as a matte finish laminate?
Here are few things to consider to prevent premature wear. First, if you do a lot of baking and cooking you might want to consider a second more heat resistant surface in the cooking areas (tile, granite, etc). More than one counter material in the kitchen is popular and reasonable in cases such as yours. Another option might be a “surface-saver” next to your cooktop or oven. These are available in several patterns, are heat resistant and great for use as cutting boards. These can add years to a laminate counter. Scratches will show up more with high gloss surfaces than matte finishes. This is a bigger problem if the tops are used on islands and peninsulas.
Q: I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen and have a dilemma! The space is already in the demolition stage (a wall into an adjoining room & all existing cabinetry, appliances & flooring have all been removed). The problem is that I now have a long, narrow room (115.5" x 255") & no good layout that accomplishes my objectives for undertaking this project: 1) get more storage & an efficient, highly functional kitchen 2) achieve a more open look & feel (I felt isolated & cramped before) 3) a seating area where people could hang out (a place for my son to snack, do his homework & for someone to keep me company in the kitchen). We like to entertain, but I'm always isolated from everyone else in the kitchen. I also really need & want a food pantry. I can't co-op any more space. 3 walls (east, north, south) are exterior walls. There are 2 door openings on the west wall, which flanks a staircase. One opening (north end of west wall) leads to the front door and foyer. The other (south end of west wall) leads to a small dining room that has an open dogleg into the living room. The staircase is placed in the middle of this box. There are 2 windows (a small one on south wall over sink drain & a larger one on north wall that takes up most of wall.) I cannot easily and cost-effectively move the sink. I've had several plans drawn up & none of them meets my objectives. Most designs put the refrigerator & pantries on the west wall across from the oven & wall of cabinets, which looked fine on paper, but now that room is empty & we can move appliances around, this looks crowded and awkward. The problem is that both doorways and traffic flow into the room come from that same side, so I am having to walk around the pantries and fridge unlike a galley. Others have the oven on a peninsula (which achieves my desire for seating) across from the sink and nothing on west wall. But then the oven is typically 110 inches away & I lose my tall pantry. There has to be an answer! I know we should not have started this project w/out a good plan. But the house is temporarily vacant & my husband was pushing to get it done while we were out. Advice please!
Your project is so complex that it can not be solved without more information. You are correct in your statement that a project of this magnitude should not have been started before you had decided on a plan that fits your needs. A visit to the job site is absolutely necessary for any kitchen designer who takes on your project. I assume that you have not ordered cabinets. At this point I would do the following. First determine both a budget and time frame for completion of the project. These steps are necessary when selecting a kitchen designer because they will need to know this information to help you select products. Delivery of cabinets and countertops can be from a week to at least two months. Next visit the following link: nkba.org. On the right side of the home page is a place to enter your zip or postal code titled, “Find a Professional”. Enter your zip code and print out the list of NKBA members and beginning calling those near you. Explain you situation with time limitations and budget restrictions. I thank you will be able to find someone in your area that can visit the site and meet your kitchen design needs.
Q: I'm purchasing a 1960's home with wood cabinets that appear to be in excellent condition. I'd like to keep the cabinets as is, or possibly refinish them, with adding new countertops, appliances, flooring, hardware, AND a dishwasher where there is none. I'm having a terrible time finding any inspiration or ideas as so many people seem to replace old cabinets. Does anyone or any site out there deal with working with old cabinets? It seems most of what I'm finding is info on full remodels. Not everyone can afford new cabinets and a full remodel. Have pictures if needed. Thanks!
A couple of options. For inspiration try a search for “do-it-yourself kitchen update”. Several sites including HGTV and This Old House, just to name a few, will have sections devoted to this one topic. Your existing cabinets may be able to be renewed with a coat of paint and new hardware. Glazes can be added. Addition of moulding may add new life to your dated kitchen. A word of caution; if you do paint your cabinets make sure you have prepared the surface properly or the paint may not adhere properly. Once the cabinets are updated, then address the countertop. Another option is to reface the existing cabinets with a new color and style. You could buy the doors and other supplies and do the work yourself or hire a firm that specializes in cabinet refacing. Remember, if you reface or refinish you old cabinets you will still have a 1960’s kitchen layout. You might check a home center, lumber yard or similar dealer to see what is available in low cost cabinetry. You might be surprised at the prices you are quoted.
Q: Hi, could you guide me how can I do a long suspended dining table top(good for 4pax) that incorporates with my Island. Legless but still steady. What structures do I need? I would prefer a wooden look dining table top stack on top of the quartz top of the island. I will use bar stools to use as my seats. I want it to look futuristic so I did not want any legs for support. I have a picture to something similar of what I would do but the extended table top is either perpendicular or parallel stack on top of the island. http://www.luxury-insider.com/Current_Affairs/image.axd?picture=1008-strato-kitchen-5-420.jpg
You may want to get a structural engineer or architect involved in this one. As I look at the picture you referenced I notice the top is rather thick. It reminded me of a project I was involved in several years ago. I used square tubing to span a distance of about 60”. The ¾” square tubing was hidden below the floor of the wall cabinets. However at each end I had support. The top in the picture is suspended with the support on one end. If you used the square tubing it would need to be anchored very well at one end in a base cabinet. The cabinet holding the top would need to be secured to the floor. As pressure is apply down on the cantilevered top, the cabinet is being pulled up from the floor. This is where the structural engineer or architect can help you. They will look at the distance and weight of countertop and will be able to tell you if your idea is possible and what materials you will need. If that is not possible consider acrylic supports.
Q: I have honey colored maple cabinets and an oak floor in my large kitchen. The appliances are black. I am changing the countertops to Peacock Green granite with no backsplash and an ogee edge. There is the "L" shaped work area, a large island and a desk area on the opposite side of the island. I want to get have a tile backsplash for the "L" area, but do not know what kind of tile and color would look best. Also- should I tile the area above the desk? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help.
I know Peacock Granite very well. With the honey colored maple cabinets and the peacock green granite which has some hints of honey in it. I think a 4" x 4" tumbled marble tile, straight or diagonal, full height (Color: neutral light brown) back splash would look really attractive. As far as the desk area, I would suggest a cork backsplash framed with a honey wood border.
Q: I am looking for the best kitchen appliances for our new project, mainly we are looking to compare two leading products ABC and XYZ, kindly advice us how to compare their safety standards, quality and after sales services, spare parts availability. We need to know what international standards they follow in their product manufacturing and operation and maintenance. With regards
As an association we can not recommend one manufacturer over another. I can tell you that both companies offer quality products. The two companies you mentioned also manufacturer high-end appliances (“Professional Grade”) under different names. The United States and Canada require high standards in the manufacturing of all appliances so those standards should be acceptable world wide. However, you will find different electrical requirements throughout the world and the appliances may need to be reworked to operate in areas outside of North America. As long as you use the appliances in North America you should not have a problem with service and parts for either manufacturer. Relax and look for the features and price that meets your needs.
Q: I am putting in a completely new kitchen and I know I want/need to get semi-custom cabinets. In our area the most popular choices seem to be AAA and BBB. I can't find out if these are considered comparable or if one is better or different than the other. If they are similar, I can choose cabinets based on looks and price.
As an association we can not recommend one manufacturer over another. I can tell you that both companies are semi-custom manufactures and offer quality products. One company offers frameless (full access) construction only while the other offers both framed (traditional construction) and frameless cabinets. After checking the cabinet warranty and support offered by the dealer, I would concentrate on the product that offers the style, price and features required for your investment and needs.
Q: I am trying to decide whether to use a light color terra cotta tile or subway tile for my kitchen backsplash. Which one will likely remain stylish over the years?
Subway tile is classic. You can't go wrong with that. Why don't you try a light terra cotta color in ceramic in a subway pattern?
Q: I want to find a certified bathroom designer that is not tied to a construction firm or a cabinet company. Is this possible? I want the designer to be independent and on my side to help me create the bathroom design concept and color selection. After I have a design then I will solicit bids for construction and cabinet selection. What advice do you have for me?
Start your search by going to nkba.org. Just to the right of the page is a box marked “Find a Professional”. Type in your zip code and hit the search button. Next look for the initials CBD or CMKBD after a designer’s name. The CMKBD will indicate a designer with over 17 years experience and is both a certified kitchen and bath designer. Now comes the hard part. Most of the names listed will be employed by or own a retail business. A few will be independent designers. However, do not assume that all CBDs or CMKBDs working for a firm will not offer design only services. When you call the designer, ask them if they offer the services you request. If you do not find a CBD or CMKBD in your area consider discussing your plan with an AKBD (Associate Kitchen and Bath Designer). These are designers that have passed a rigorous academic exam covering both kitchen and bath issues such as construction and plumbing issues. They should be able to help you.
Q: My oven is broken but I dont know what the problem is.
I would first check the circuit breaker for the oven if all power is off. If you have power, hire a professional. You should never attempt to repair you oven unless you know what you are doing. If the oven is fairly new it may be covered by a manufacturer’s warranty. If so, contact the manufacturer and have them send a repair technician. If the over is over a year old, check the yellow pages for an appliance repair company near you. If the oven is over ten years old you may want to replace it.
Q: I am planning to renovate my bathroom. I plan on removing the bathtub, then frame out and tile an open shower with a bench seat at the end. The bathroom is small and I want to relocate the drain to the center of the bathroom floor. I want to use the one drain for the shower and the bathroom floor. I plan on using a pre-sloped mortar (mud) bed so that the liner, when installed, will direct all moisture toward the drain's "weep holes". Is this a bad plan?
I would not advise having the shower water draining into a center bath floor drain. The shower floor is one of the most unsafe floor surfaces because of the mixture of water and soap. If this slippery mixture moves outside of the shower space, other areas of the bathroom will become dangerous. The cleaning process for the bathroom will also be more difficult. I assume the bathroom is not on a concrete slab. A rough-in of two separate drains in the bath space would be well worth the time and expense.
Q: I am trying to repair the drawer sliders on an old house's kitchen cabinets (installed in the 60's I think). There are metal rails on each side of the drawer that require small nylon rollers on a nylon or metal shaft (into the side frame). The old one has a 5/8" to 11/16" diameter wheel (tapered at the OD) on a 1/4" shaft that is 1" long. I am having great difficulty finding replacements. Do you know where I can get them? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The drawers themselves have rounded bottom edges on the right and left. Thanks for your help.
You have several options but the chances that you will find the exact drawer guides are slim. Your best bet is to identify the cabinet manufacturer of the cabinets if you can. A few cabinet makers labeled the drawers. Another place to look would be the sink base cabinet doors. If you can identify the manufacturer find a dealer that sells their product and ask if they can help. However, if I were you, I would look for replacement drawer guides at your local home center. There is a good chance you will find what you need. During the 60’s through the 80’s most drawer slides were mounted on the side of the drawers. Today the drawers systems are side or bottom mounted. Be sure to take a drawer with you and replace all of the guides at one time. You should be good for another 30-40 years.
Q: We have a U-shaped kitchen. The bar is 93 inches long and 24 inches wide without the countertop. The overhang of the quartz countertop will be 14 inches on one side and on the end. I need help deciding which shape would look better at the end of the counter rectangular or curved. The cabinets are natural cherry with raised panel doors in a simple rectangle design. Does this influence my choice? If you recommend a rectangular end, should the corners be rounded, and by how much? If you recommend a curved end, how do I determine the best radius? The countertop has a large ogee with bullnose edge.
Your choice should be determined in part by what is happening at the end of the counter. A rounded counter would help direct traffic flow and add movement to the kitchen. A rectangular counter could become a “visual” obstacle that traffic would need to move around. Another issue is the fact that most shapes in your kitchen are rectangular including the door panels. This would leave the curved counter as the only curved element in the kitchen. However, if the counter is to be used as an eating or gathering space, a curved counter is more conducive to conservation. If you decide on a rectangular top, the corners should have a rounded edge to prevent injury if someone bumps into the corners. A slight radius, 1-1 ½” radius, should be sufficient. I would maintain the same edge treatment on all edges of the counter for continuity.
Q: We have purchased a farm style copper sink for our new kitchen. There will also be a small prep sink in the butcher block island and another small sink in the beverage center. Appliances are stainless steel. Medium maple flooring and shaker style cabinets. Counters will most likely be granite. My question is what material the secondary sinks should be, copper or go to stainless steel or something else? Also any suggestions about faucets? The home is craftsman style, lots of wood and windows. Thanks.
My opinion on the secondary sink in the butcher block island would be to carry in the copper. The copper finish doesn't have to be exactly like the farmhouse but in the same family. As far as the beverage center, I would suggest using a hammered copper under mount or even over mount. As far as faucets, I would suggest oil rubbed bronze finish in keeping with the craftsman style.
Q: We are planning an addition which would include a brand new kitchen. We prefer the quality and look of custom solid wood cabinetry including doors and framing, shelves, etc. However, our cabinet maker (who comes highly recommended) insists that only the doors are solid wood and the exposed cabinet sides, frames, shelves, etc. are better made with a wood product with wood veneer? Which is better quality for a high end kitchen, solid wood throughout or wood veneer over melamine (or other wood product)? We are new to this. Thank you for your time.
The reason your cabinet maker has such a good reputation is because he gives good advise. He is correct in recommending that you not use solid wood in shelves, sides and backs or bottoms in cabin construction. Shelves, sides and other large panels are generally thinner and if made of solid wood could warp or split. Plywood or other wood products are you best choice. Your cabinet maker is giving you good advice.
Q: We are building a new home and are considering mixing cabinet colors in the U- shaped kitchen, in an effort to differentiate a designated bar area from the rest of the kitchen. The bar area will have lyptus wood cabinets with a chestnut/charcoal glaze finish and a dropped down ceiling. We are stuck between 2 choices for the rest of the kitchen cabinets. One option is maple wood with a driftwood/coffee glaze - a light beige color that highly contrasts with the bar area cabinets. Option 2 is cherry wood with a nutmeg/coffee glaze finish - a softer contrast with the bar cabinets. Appliances and sinks will be stainless steel but the refrigerator and dishwasher will have wood fronts same as the kitchen cabinets. Leaning toward stainless hued cabinet pulls/knobs. Any thoughts as to these choices and any suggestions for granite colors? We would like different but complimentary granite for the bar and kitchen. We are looking for any overall subtle craftsman/spa/Asian/transitiontal feel for the house and trying to make selections that will stand the test of time and not look dated down the road. Your help is appreciated.
The key word is subtle…….I would recommend option 2….cherry wood/nutmeg/coffee glaze and not use stainless pulls/knobs. Stainless stands out too much, however, a stainless steel sink is fine. You may want to use a pewter faucet. My suggestion regarding the pulls/knobs (good idea, mixing pulls with knobs) would be to use a pewter type color with an two/toned finish (black glaze over the pewter). Then the hardware, knobs, pulls will not stand. You will get the feel of texture vs. contrast. You don’t want too much going on, if you want a subtle spa/Asian/transitional feel……..meaning too much contrast. As far as the counter top, keep it simple, not very busy. Granite tends to be very busy, go with grays, muted yellows and browns with undertones of gray and yellow. A wavy pattern vs. a dotted pattern.
Q: Hi, I have a kitchen with cherry wood floors, ubatuba granite countertops, oil rubbed bronze drawer pulls/faucet, medium maple cabinets and black appliances. I want to create a warm feeling in the kitchen, but not too dark. The one issue is that I have an opportunity to swap out all of my appliances for stainless steel (side by side fridge, dishwasher, double wall oven, cooktop, and over cooktop builtin microwave all in black currently). And we also are looking at putting in a backsplash with something to lighten it up a bit. Suggestions? Should I stick with black or go to the stainless? Would I have to change the hardware/faucet if I went with stainless? Thanks in advance!
What you are saying: I want to create a warm feeling in the kitchen. I think you have a warm feeling in the kitchen right now with the Black Appliances, oil rubbed bronze pull/faucet, medium maple cabinets and ubatuba granite. If you change out to stainless steel appliances, it will certainly lighten up the kitchen but it won't be as warm as with the black appliances. Using the S/S appliances will create a dramatic effect with the dark ubatuba and light appliances. Both ways will look beautiful. There is no problem keeping the oil rubbed faucet with a s/s sink. As far as the back splash, you can lighten it by using tumbled marble or glass mosaics in the light mixed brown family or even the brown/green family.
Q: We are updating our kitchen with a new floor, new countertops, a new cooktop, and oven. I get conflicting info from designer, cabinet maker, and appliance retailer regarding the order of things and the products to buy. Hope you can help... Does the floor get put in before or after one new cabinet and new countertops on the old? How important is it to put in "state of the art" appliances? We don't do that much cooking these days, we have a microwave on the counter with convection, that we haven't taken time to figure out. A warming drawer might be more appropriate for us but out designer says it's a mistake help. Please we're too confused... Many thanks.
Let’s start with the floor. Since only one new cabinet is being added, I would install the floor just before the free-standing appliances. The order I would suggest is the new cabinet first especially if it is a base cabinet. Next I would install the top since the sink and cooktop must be installed in the top. The oven is next. The floor follows since the dishwasher and refrigerator will sit on top of the floor. Now, what about the “state-of-the-art” appliances? Consider the value of your home and if the kitchen remodel is a long term or short investment. If you aren’t cooking a lot and you plan to stay in the home for several years you might want to consider less complicated appliances. However if you plan to sell the home in a few years and comparable homes in your area have the higher end appliances, you may want to include them in your new kitchen. A warming drawer is great for keeping prepare food warm and for warming plates. If you entertain frequently, you may find the drawer a convenient appliance.
Q: We're choosing shaker style cabinets for our kitchen and want to use bar pulls on all doors and drawers. We have a 70" space that will house 3 cabinets. We plan to put a 30" glass cooktop in the 36" middle cabinet with two very wide and deep drawers below for pots and pans. To the left of those drawers we would like to put a cabinet with three drawers, a shallow one on top and two equal size deeper ones below. To the right will be one door that pulls out for spices and oils. Do the pulls on the large drawers have to align with those on the smaller adjacent drawers? Would it be a more pleasing aesthetic if they did align and can you suggest a better configuration?
Typically the top drawer hardware will be located in the middle (up and down) of the shallow drawers. For continuity, all of the handles on the top drawers will be level. As soon as you move to the lower deeper drawers you may want to locate the handles more toward the top of the drawer front than the middle. Often the handles on the deeper drawers are the same distance from the top of the drawer front as the drawers on the top row. You might want to sketch a view of the handles on the drawers before they are installed. Remember, the Shaker style is know for function rather than aesthetics.
Q: What is the proper way to mount under cabinet xenon lighting? Should they be placed at the back, middle or front of the cabinet?
The best location for task lighting is as close as possible to the front bottom edge of the wall cabinets. As always read and follow installation instructions.
Q: I need to replace my 30" slide in range. The ranges I like are 36" tall and my kitchen cabinets are 351/2" tall with ceramic tile counter tops. Will this look funny?
The top of the average counter is 36” above the finished floor (AFF). Therefore the top of most ranges are 36” AFF. If the top of the range and counter are not level you might spill something as you move a pot from one surface to the other. However, since the top of all counters are not consistently 36” AFF and floors are not always level, most ranges have leg levelers on all four corners. Check to see if the ranges you are looking at are adjustable and can be lowered the ½” you need. I would think the difference in height would be more inconvenient than odd looking.
Q: I have a beautiful Krown Kitchen and several months ago I decided to give my cabinets a good cleaning since I noticed dirt and grime building under the hardware. I removed all the hardware to thorough clean. Unfortunately some of the hardware has not stayed securely tight fit since. Some have simply fallen off while others are loose and often just hanging there. Where can I purchase Krown Kitchen hardware - I can't seem to find the correct match or something even close. Thanking you in advance.
I would need more information about the type of hardware to give you a perfect answer. Therefore, I have included a few options. First contact the manufacturer for replacement hardware. Another possibility is to replace the old hardware with new up-dated hardware. If you like the current hardware and just need to make it fit tighter here are a couple of options depending on the screw fastening method. If the screws attach to wood and the wood will no longer hold the screws you may be able to insert a small piece of wood (match stick) in the existing hole and then replace the screw. The wood sliver does not need to be very thick or you might split the wood knob or pull. Another method is to fill the hole with wood filler and re-drill the hole for a correct fit. If the screw is attached to a ceramic or metal knob or pull, wrap the screw with Teflon® tape. This will tighten the fit. If installing into a ceramic knob, be sure to use small amounts of tape and check the fit often. Too much tape might crack the ceramic if you apply too much pressure.
Q: We are remodeling our kitchen and I am wondering where to place electrical outlets in our kitchen island where they won't be noticed. We will be having a bookcase on one end and the other end will have false door panels on it. Can the outlets be under the granite overhang? Thank you for your help.
As you are aware the Electrical Code requires receptacles in islands to avoid cords from stretching across open walkways. Additionally, most kitchen appliance have very short cords. Therefore the receptacles must be conveniently located on the island sides if the countertop has a deep overhang on the back. If you have decorative end panels that you don’t want disfigured by the addition of receptacles try this. Check with an electrician and see if a thin, decorative power strip can be installed upside down under the side overhangs of the counter. If GFCI protection is required, the strip could be attached to a GFCI breaker since space may be a problem.
Q: I've remodeled my kitchen with granite countertops, stainless steel appliances and cream color tile floors. I need your help with determining the type of finish for the recessed lights. The electrical company I'm working with offers a 5" Incandescent step baffle in matte white and in natural metal flange. The latter is described as "an excellent addition to rooms with stainless appliances and accents." My kitchen ceiling is white. Please help me decide the best light finish for my kitchen.
If you are talking about the trim of the recessed lighting, there are a few variables. Your ceiling is white, I would recommend the following: if you have a lot of recessed cans in the ceiling, I would use the white trim. The white would blend in with the ceiling and use a metal baffle to accent the stainless steel. If you use the metal trim on a lot of recessed cans, it might be overkill, too much metal. If you have a few recessed cans then the room can carry the metal trim, it would look good.
Q: I have Tan Brown granite installed in my kitchen what color backsplash do I need?
It is hard to answer this question. When you say tan brown, how many different browns are in the granite? Is there black in it? Is there white in it? Yellow in it, blue, etc? Probably, use tiles in the warm family, i.e., toned down yellows and oranges
Q: What is the projected life of each major kitchen appliance? At what point should they be replaced, assuming they are still functional?
The NKBA publication, Kitchen and Bath Products suggest that the average major appliance should last 10 – 20 years. Dishwashers would be on the lower end and gas ranges and refrigerators on the upper end. These figures do not indicate if repairs were made during that time. I am working on a project now where four appliances by the same manufacturer were installed 11 years ago. There has been no service on any of the appliances since installation. Since they are working properly, the client will keep them for the near future. However if you do need to make a choice between repairing a major appliance and purchasing a new one, consider the following. Most appliances have no problem during the first five years. If you continue to have problems with the same new appliance you should probably replace it. If the appliance is approaching the 10 year + age consider the cost of repairs and the efficiency of a newer model. Look for the Energy Guide and Energy Star labels to help you make your decisions. You may find the cost of operating the old appliance may be worth considering a new more efficient model. A side benefit is the influx of new features over the past 10 years.
Q: What is the fee vs. the price of the project per hour for the contractor that you hire for my project? I want to cut out the middle man. Electrical Contractor? Helenca Pronounced Helinka
The fee paid to the electrical contractor is too unpredictable based on job location, scope of work, etc. My suggestion is, let the contractor hire their own electrician (and other trade professionals) for several reasons. First, the contractor’s guarantee and reputation is based on their work as well as the work of the trade they have selected for your project. Next, in the event of a problem, you have one person to call, your contractor. I remember a situation where the home owner’s whirlpool tub would not work properly. The homeowner had purchased the bathtub and had hired friends and family to install it. None of the people hired by the owner were trade professionals. The “electrician” blamed the “plumber”, the “plumber” blamed the person that installed the bathtub and that person blamed the “plumber”. The owner finally hired a contractor to take the bathtub out and reinstall it properly. They ended up paying double. Once to tear it out; again to install it. Also, if the product is not installed as per manufacturer’s instructions your warranty may be void and may also violate codes. If you hire your own subcontractor they must fit the general contractor’s schedule or the completion date for you project could be delayed. Finally, the electrical portion of any project is the last place where you need to be cutting corners. Let you contractor perform the complete job. You will be more satisfied over the long run.
Q: I have a turnaround under my cabinet and it has come off track what can I do to get it back on track
It would depend on the manufacturer of the cabinetry. There are several variations. Some cabinet lines purchase their lazy-Susan insert from major accessories manufacturers. Others produce the parts in-house. If you contact the dealer that provided the cabinets they should be able to help you.
Q: Help!! We have medium hardwood floors throughout, 42" maple kitchen cabinets, stainless appliances and a tongue in groove medium wood ceiling in our 40' family room/kitchen. Countertops are currently ugly white ceramic. We were going to replace the island with Ipay wood but it's much too dark with all the other wood. We cannot abide anymore maple and are wondering what kind of island counter/sink/faucet to install? Price is an issue, of course like most of the rest of America. Your feedback is greatly appreciated!
Maple wood usually has a yellow warm undertone that is why the white is not working. I would suggest if you could go with granite in tones of green for contrast (not to dark) it would work. If you don't like green than I would suggest neutrals of light browns with black in it. I would not suggest going with yellows or oranges because you have too much of that going on in the woods. If the granite is too expensive than look for laminate countertops with those tones in it that emulates the granite.
Q: Is 43" an acceptable finish bar height? I had a cabinet and granite installer build a kitchen island with a raised bar on the backside of it. The cabinet countertops are 36-5/8" to 37" off finish floor depending on where you measure (floor is not perfectly level) and the bar finishes at 43" off finish floor. Is this unacceptable?
Generally, raised bars have two purposes; higher eating height and a visual barrier. There is not a mandatory height for a high counter. The standard for high counters is typically 42”. If you have eaten at a counter 42” high you will notice a difference of one inch. However you can minimize the height difference by the height of the stools used at the counter. I would not go to the expense of changing the height if the counter is comfortable for dining. If the counter is simple a visual barrier the difference in height will even be less of a problem.
Q: We're building a new home and have decided that we only want a single basin in the master bathroom, as we seldom need to get ready at the same time. We are planning a make-up center next to a window, with a half wall with linen storage separating the vanity from the make-up center. What type of lighting and mirrors should I be looking at for the make-up center? Is there a rule of thumb for storage for make-up centers?
If there is a substantial difference in the height of the people using the mirror, make sure it is at a height suitable for everyone. If you have a sit down grooming area consider a make up mirror that can be used by a person who must remove their glasses to apply make-up. This can be a countertop freestanding mirror or one that pulls out from the wall. Some models are available with there own lights. Lighting should be beside the mirror for face care, if it will fit, and also light above the mirror for hair care. These different light locations do not need to be on the same switch. There will be times when you only need the side lighting. For storage, consider drawers when possible for the smaller items. For lining storage, place roll-out shelves in the linen cabinet between 15” and 48” above the floor. This will make many items more accessible at a height that does not require bending. Larger items including bath towels can be placed in shelves above the roll-out shelves. The rule for storage is: Adequate storage based on the use of the bath and it should be at point-of-use. Finally, don’t forget plenty of electrical receptacles with ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection. They are inexpensive to install when the stud walls are exposed.
Q: Updating my kitchen and want the look of "subway tile" as a backsplash, without actually using tile. I think I saw a product comes in a 4x8 paneling but can't seem to find it. If not the subway tile look, even a beadboard look. Just something besides silver, copper or tile as a backsplash. Is it applied with calk? Any help would be appreciated.
Do a search for “tile board” on your preferred search engine. It is available in 4 x 8 sheets. It is used in both kitchen and bathroom, will resist water, available in several patterns and should fit your budget. Use the caulk to seal the joint between your top and the panel. Tubes of panel adhesive should be used for applying the tile board to the wall. The person supplying the tile board will recommend an adhesive for your application.
Q: I am remodeling my master bath with new floor tile, tub surround and shower with nice accents, lights, knobs, etc. My cabinets, unfortunately, are white melamine. I would like to replace the white cultured marble with something richer looking - what can I use? I do not want the added cost of new cabinets because our house is already at the top range of our neighborhood with other things we have done.
Try this. Find an undermount lav and faucet that fits your budget. Take it to a marble/granite yard and pick out a remnant of a left over slab of granite or marble for a lovely counter top for your vanity (you just give them the size and they will help you look for the right sizing and cut out the sink and cut out for the faucet and have them install it for you. You can save a lot of money that way.
Q: Can I place a cooker at the end of a worktop ie. next to a wall in a limited space?
The distance between the edge of a cooktop/range and a vertical surface such as a wall is set by the manufacturer of the appliance. Contact the manufacturer with the model number of your cooktop/range. They will give you the required minimum distant. Installing the appliance improperly may violate the local building code and, in the event of a fire, your insurance company may not pay for your loss.
Q: I would like to use a tile wainscoting in my bathroom which would also serve as a backsplash for my custom wooden vanity instead of installing a tile backsplash on top of my vanity countertop. I think it would make the vanity seem more like a piece of furniture. Are there any problems with this design regarding attaching the vanity to the wall? I know it should be flush to wall and that the grout lines could present a problem. Am I making a terrible mistake if I do this?
You have a couple of things to consider. If the tile wainscoting is to rest on top of the vanity countertop, the vanity and counter must be installed before the tile work is started. I would suggest you start with the vanity sitting on the finished floor and attached to the wall. Then install the tile. Otherwise, you will have to do some very critical measurements. Let’s assume the vanity is a fixed height. If the floor and wall covering (tile) is installed first, the backsplash will not rest on the top and if it lines up properly, the location of the bottom of the wainscoting must be exactly at the top of the vanity top. If you are off by a fraction of an inch it will be obvious. I am not sure of the question about the grout lines. If it is an alignment issue, it would help to install the vanity first as I first mentioned. Another issue is the countertop material. I did not see a mention of the material for the top. If you do install the vanity and top first, be sure to carefully cover all surfaces. The material joining the backsplash to the top must be considered. If the top is tile, then you might use grout. If the top is another material I would use a sealant other than grout so expansion will not be a factor.
Q: We have recently remodeled our kitchen and had Ubatuba granite installed on our countertops. Our installer told us to wait 72 hours and then rub off the sealer with a terry cloth towel. We followed instructions and yet a week later we are still rubbing, rubbing, and rubbing...and even with the use of a buffer with terry cloth end, we cannot remove the streaking and haze that is left behind. Needless to say, we have tried contacting our installer but he is no where to be found. Can you give us suggestions as to what to do? Thank you.
I have provided you with a link to a page at the Marble Institute of America’s Website. This will be a great resource to you as you care for your counters. If the information is not covered on the page contact them directly. A granite countertop is a great long-term investment if it is cared for properly. http://www.marble-institute.com/consumerresources/stains.cfm
Q: What are options for a badly stained acrylic tub/shower? Do you replace, recover, or paint? Also, in a kitchen design what are the disadvantages of placing a range top and hood angled in the corner? Is there a reason this is not done very much?
First the tub/shower issue. I always advise checking with the manufacturer of the unit for their suggestion. Often, what appears to be a big deal to the consumer is not as big an issue to the manufacturer. Products may be available that will make the unit look as good as new. If that will not fix the problem then lets look at replacements options. If your tub/shower unit is in two or more pieces, you may be able to replace only a portion of the unit. Normally the tub portion is the most likely to be stained. If however the walls were the problem you could replace the wall surround with tile or other waterproof materials. Another solution is to remove the current unit and replace it with a shower only. If you have a second bathtub in the home this is an option you may not have considered especially if you use a shower more that a bathtub. Replacing an existing bathtub is difficult due to the fact that a bathtub is one of the first items to go into a home during construction. Therefore it is very labor intensive to replace a 60” bathtub that has been built into a wall opening. There are companies that can cover you existing bathtub with an acrylic unit and this is often done with chipped steel and cast iron bathtubs. When you place the cooking center diagonally in a corner you waste a large amount of space. This is the main reason you will not see it in small to medium kitchens. Another issue is the access to cabinets adjacent to the range.
Q: A small remodel for kitchen grew bigger. Little by little, we have added cabinets, installed Ubatuba granite countertops and teak wood floors. I feel that the new white appliances do not blend the best. Is there something I can do to help this to blend with the other things that are more warmer looking? Would a certain color wall paint help? Also, what color microwave should I get? I have mostly black small appliances on my countertops. My sink is an undermount stainless. Thanks for any suggestions.
You answered your own question……”the new white appliances do not blend the best”. My suggestion would be to have the white appliances sprayed black by a professional painter that has the experience in painting appliances. Since you have black small appliances on the countertops, they would also blend in. I know ubatuba very well and we know that it is a dark green and has a nice soft contrast with the warm teak wood floors as well as a low contrast with the black appliances. Then you can paint your room a warm color.
Q: Installing new granite countertop in master bathroom over existing cabinet. The countertop measures 22" deep, including backsplash Is there a measurement formula/guideline I should use to determine the self-rimming, drop-in sink size? Widespread 8" faucet w/levers to be mounted into granite top. i.e., number of inches to leave at rear of sink for faucet, number of inces to leave from front of sink to edge of countertop, balance left for proper sink fit. Thank you.
There are too many variables to create a standard formula. Manufacturers include installation instructions with their sinks and faucets. From the start you will be working with two different sets of instructions. Next, since sinks are available in different depths a standard “guideline” is all but impossible. I would work from the front to the back. I assume your sink rim does not have holes for the faucet installation. Use a 22” deep piece of plywood for a template. It is cheaper than buying a new granite slab. Measure from the back wall to the inside front edge of the vanity cabinet. Mark that on the plywood. That is the closest the sink opening can be to the cabinet without cutting into the cabinet. Next place the bowl template on the plywood and draw in the cutout for the bowl. Once you have that, check the distance from the back edge of the plywood to the inside back of the vanity. Mark that on your plywood. The remaining distance is what you will need for the faucet installation, less the thickness of the backsplash. If you are left with extra space, you can move everything toward the back of the top. I would mount everything in the plywood to see if you have overlooked anything before cutting the granite. If you can’t install it on the plywood it will be impossible on the granite.
Q: I am trying to remodel kitchen myself without a contractor. I am going to get granite countertops and use the cabinetry I all ready have. My concern is the new sink and faucet(s) underneath a window sill. We now have a double sink and the new sink will be a "double" undermounted sink. I am concerned about having room for the faucet(s) and which kind of faucet due to the window sill overhang. Could I/should I contact someone to help me with this so it doesn't turn into a problem? If so, whom should I consult?
Without additional information I have one suggestion. If you have not selected your sink you may want to consider a sink with one large bowl and a smaller bowl. This would give you room behind the smaller bowl to place the faucet. Beyond that I would suggest to contact a dealer and ask their advice. A visit to the home by a kitchen design to assess the situation would be required to prevent a costly mistake when dealing with locating holes in a granite counter. Follow this link to an NKBA member near you and ask their opinion and ask about their fee to visit your home. A few dollars for a home visit could save you hundreds in replacement costs. http://www.nkba.org/consumer_tools_fap.aspx
Q: I have a 6'x9' bathroom and finding a sink (lavatory) to fit an area of roughly 24-25" wide by 15-18" deep is difficult. The home was built in 1952 and this is the original bathroom. Can you suggest something? There is no room for a vanity. I would greatly appreciate your guidance.
I see two options; both with little storage. The first is a mini vanity, typically 18” wide and 16” deep. These can be found at home centers and include both a cabinet and a sink. Another option is a pedestal lav or a wall hung sink. Unfortunately, the dimensions you gave will not meet current codes. The International Residential Code requires 15” between the center of a lavatory and a vertical surface such as a wall. Since the bath is existing, the code should not create a problem for you. I would assume however that storage is a problem in your bath. You might find some storage space between the studs in the bathroom. Most bathroom will have “wet walls” constructed from 2 x 6’s or possibly 2 x 8’s. The wood studs are typically 16” on center leaving a storage space of 14 ½” between. Shallow cabinets can be recessed into these spaces or shelving can be added. Even 2 x 4 walls will offer 4” deep storage. I know it doesn’t sound like much but most toiletry items are in small containers.
Q: Please help me! I purchased a condo unit in a concrete building that is still in the process of having the units completed and in the ensuite it is supposed to have a shower installed instead of a bathtub. I would like a tub installed but have been told it would cost $5000+ to change and basically they wouldn't want to do it. The last time I saw my unit the shower had not been installed yet and the drains and a concrete slab probably about 3" high had been poured where the shower will go. They say that the reason the price will be so high is that the ceiling would need to be redone in unit below. I know that there would be work/cost involved in changing but don't think that it can't be done or that it would involve fixing ceiling in unit below - is it possible?
You have two obstacles that need to be addressed to make the change. First, let’s deal with plumbing issues. The drains in a concrete floor are located before the slab is poured. In your case this is the floor of your condo. Typically, the drain location for the shower will not be compatible with a bathtub drain. Also the P-trap, required for either a tub or shower, is below the floor level. This means the P-trap is in the ceiling of the condo below yours. The second problem deals with the size of the bathtub. The dimensions of a bathtub require that it be installed very early in any construction project. In fact the bathtub is the first fixture installed in most residential units. Because of its size, the bathtub will be in weeks before interior walls are finished. The only option I see is to consider a platform bathtub. By elevating the bathtub in a platform, the plumber could redirect the drain location above the floor (hidden in the platform) for the proper slope to the shower drain. As you research platform bathtubs, consider a size less than the standard 60”. I would suggest you discuss this option with your builder and see if you can reach a compromise. First, do a little homework by printing examples of your suggestion.
Q: I am putting in granite countertops with a electric coil slide-in range. A 3" x 30" piece of granite is needed behind the range to the wall. Of course the granite will be sealed, but with the heat of the burners and if a pan slides onto the 3 by 30" piece of granite change in color over time or damage the granite over time?
Placing a slide-in range in a granite opening should not be a heat problem. However, while the granite is resistant to heat, it is not advisable to place hot pots directly on any counter surface including granite. You should have a heat resistance surface next to your range to place pots removed from the burners. Within a short period of time the pots will cool enough to be placed directly on the granite. If, in an emergency, you needed to slide a pot off of the range directly onto the top it should not be a problem.
Q: During a recent kitchen renovation, granite countertops were installed, there were two issues. The refrigerator was jammed in between the countertop and one side of the enclosure, with no space for movement at all (it was stuck). Then the backsplash has 1/4" of caulking on one end of the piece and less than 2/16" on the other end. Should the space between the refrigerator and countertop be a standard distance, maybe 1/8" - 1/2" on each side? On the backsplash should there be 1/4" of caulking between the backsplash edge and the wall? The work appears to be less than good quality.
The space for the refrigerator is set by the manufacture. A couple of specifications that would apply to your situation are the minimum width and the space required to open the door to allow pull-out crispers to function properly. If the opening width is less than the manufacturer’s specs you need to bring it to the attention of the granite fabricator. I am not sure of the next part of your question. If the ¼” gap is behind the backsplash, it is possible that the wall is not straight. There may be a bow in the wall. Since the granite cannot be bent, the opening between the granite and the wall must be filled. This is typical in backsplash installation. If the gap is between the end of the backsplash and the wall at a 90 degree angle then the distance at each end is typically the same dimension.
Q: We are planning a remodel of our master bathroom. We currently have a garden tub without jets and a separate shower. We never use the tub. In addition, we have two other bathrooms with tub/shower combos. Do we need a tub in the master bath? Will going with a walk-in shower only affect resale?
Ask yourself how long you plan to live in the home. Then determine if, during that period of time, you would enjoy a larger two person shower. Think about your age. As you get a little older will you be able to access a shower easier than a bathtub. As far as resale, I am sure a lot of people agree they use a shower more than their bathtub in the master bath space. If your choice is a shower only, don’t forget a bench and recessed storage for shampoo, etc. Consider a low threshold for easy entry in later years. Several new shower products were previewed this spring in Atlanta at the Kitchen and Bath Industry Show. The shower is becoming a very important part of the master bath and may be the only bathing fixture you need. Contact an NKBA member to see what’s new.
Q: Is there a ranking or grouping system in place that determines the overall quality of cabinets? We have been led to WWW and XXX they are just on the outside of a stretched budget. We have been told that YYY and ZZZ are poor quality, looks are subjective, what is out there that will last and look good for 20 years?
We removed the actual names of the manufacturers because as an association we should not promote one brand over another. All of the manufactures you mentioned are made by companies whose reputation depends on quality products. You mentioned cabinets that will last 20 years. All of the companies listed have been in business for more than 20 years so their reputation speaks for itself. Your first group would fit into a category of “custom” cabinetry. Each cabinet is made for a specific client. The second group fits into either a “semi-custom” or “stock” category. With this group, the cabinets will meet quality standards but will not have custom features and some may be stocked in regional warehouses for quick delivery. You may want to check the website for the Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturer’s Association (KCMA). They have a testing program to establish the durability of cabinets made in North America. I have included a link to their site and the testing process. http://www.kcma.org/index.cfm?fuseaction=Visitors.Performance
Q: I like the idea of separating the cooktop from the oven however this would result in the oven opening into a walkway. I have 4 feet of space between the oven and the center island. Would you see the being problematic?
NKBA recommends that walkways in the kitchen be at least 36” wide. If you have 48” then you should be OK. Just be sure you have a countertop landing area on the right or left of the oven if the oven opens into a traffic area. The landing area is a counter space at least 16” deep and 15” wide. The space between the top of the counter and the bottom of the wall cabinets should be at least 15” in height. The landing space allows room to load and unload items from the oven. A landing area for an oven should never be across from the oven if the area in front is a traffic isle.
Q: We did our kitchen countertop in a Mosiac style, using left over tile. In spots it is uneven and we need to know if we can cover the top with polyurethane professional formula for floors and then cover with 511 sealant? Thank you, Rebecca McCall
Before you apply one finish over another you need to be sure they are compatible. You mentioned using a 511 sealant over a polyurethane finish for floors. If the 511 is the penetrating sealer used for grout, brick, tile and cement applications, you are talking about a product designed for porous services. This is not a typical application for the 511 sealant and it is not used as a surface coating. Before experimenting with two different products in an application for which they are not designed you should discuss your use with the respective manufacturers. Using the wrong product could result in removal of the tile and starting all over again. Make sure that whatever product you use, it will hold up to the heat and constant wear common to kitchen countertops.
Q: With a cultured marble countertop, what is the relative cost (least expensive to most expensive) of the different sink types - drop-in, undermount, and integral. Thank you.
Prices may vary, but including labor, here are some comparisons: a stock size cultured marble top/integral bowl would be the least expensive. Next would be a custom size cultured marble top/integral bowl followed by a drop-in bowl. The most expensive would be an undermount lav in a cultured marble top. Keep in mind the type of bowl, drop-in or undermount, can vary in price depending on material.
Q: I am rennovating my kitchen and have a dilemma deciding on which side of my sink the dishwasher should be located. The placement will affect my cabinet design. Should a dishwasher be placed to the right of a sink for a right-handed person and to the left for a left-handed person? Thanks
You have two main considerations when planning a dishwasher in a kitchen; ergonomics and space. Let’s start with ergonomics. Most people that are right handed will use their right hand to remove food from the plate before placing the plate into the dishwasher. While you are removing the food with your right hand you are holding the plate with your left hand. If the dishwasher is to the left of the sink, very little bending or reaching is required. If bending and reaching is the only factor I would place the dishwasher on the left of the sink for a right-handed client. Occasionally, this arrangement will not work due to lack of space to remove the dishes. The average adult will need about 21” to stand between the open dishwasher door and any cabinetry place at a right angle to the dishwasher. Therefore you will need to be sure you have at least 21” between a corner and the open door of the dishwasher to remove dishes and place them in upper cabinets. I would first, make sure I had room to remove the dishes comfortable. If I was right handed and needed to load the dishwasher with my right hand I would become adjust to that change in a few weeks.
Q: Are there guidelines to where you should install shower accessories (soap dish and shelf) in a standard size tub with tile surround?
If it is something you need to reach during showering (soap dish, shampoo shelf, etc), I would suggest a height of between 36” and 48”. A child could use the 36” height and the person in a seated position could reach the 48” height. If the soap dish is in the shower spray, it should be raised or moved. Towels stored on a shelf in the shower area should be high to avoid contact with the shower spray but no higher than 72”. If you place the soap dish at 48” for showering, you may want to place a second lower dish above the bathtub rim for easy access while showering.
Q: When is the best season to remodel a kitchen or bathroom. I have noticed summer is the most popular because you can use the grill outside and enjoy the outdoors. I also hear that fall is best so you have a nice bathroom and kitchen for the holidays. Maybe a better question is, when is the busiest season for contractors?
Tomorrow is the best time to remodel! Depending on where you live and the local economy, I am positive there are many NKBA members in your area that would like to talk with you. Now let’s talk about typical economic times. Your comments about cooking outside, during seasonable weather, make a good point. Many families like to have their kitchens installed before the winter holidays. Beginning October dealers will become busy. By early December, things begin slow down until after the first of the year. I would suggest you take advantage of economic conditions and good weather and contact a kitchen and bath dealer soon. You can start by visiting nkba.org and type in your zip code and find a dealer near you.
Q: Hi, I want to construct a kitchen but I have limited space. The space is rectangular in shape. Can you suggest how I should remodel my kitchen so that I can max utilization, Thank you very much.
If your room is long and narrow I would suggest a two wall kitchen. Hopefully the shorter walls are over 96” in width. With a narrow kitchen you would actually loose usable storage space by adding corner cabinets. It is difficult to make more detailed suggestions without room dimension and location of doors. Contact an NKBA member in your area and ask their advice. They should have several suggestions, one of which will fit your needs.
Q: How can I refinish a gold tone chandelier that hangs over our dining area? Is there some way to create an oil rubbed bronze finish?
I would suggest you take the lamp to a jeweler and ask their advice. They should be able to tell you how the finish was applied. Some finishes may have a topcoat that may need to be removed. I would not want to make any suggestions without seeing the lamp. Attempting to improve the original finish may damage the lamp’s value. Another suggestion would be an area antique dealer. They could offer suggestions on